[michel gravelle]

Hi
Since I have been unfortunate not to finish the P-47 build . I ve decided to assemble the TopFlite P-51 Mustang Giant ARF . It shouldn't t take too long , I figure about a month This is truly a beautiful plane and I must say that I payed a very good price with the help of a friend . And from what I have been told , it,s really easy to fly

I ve already started the kit version of this plane , but this will not be finished until next spring .

I have all the hardware that it takes to put this bird in the air . The Robart retracts , mains and tail . A Dessert Aircraft Da-50r , added to this engine is a Keleo exhaust system . ( many of you already know about this ) . This set-up should put the warbird in the sky with authority , maybe not totally balistic , but with a lot of mussel .

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...51/key_/tm.htm

In the post above it shows how to modify the wing . If you have a look at posts 1263 and 1264 by Gary9648 . He shows how to modify the landing gear mounting . The modification is really simple ., and if you do it before you have one of those , less than perfect landings , you will find that it is well worth the time . When I removed the bottom skin to reveal the spares and the shear webbing , I was amazed what I found . The webbing was grained with the span of the wing , not very good . According to Gary the spares twist and this is what damages the wings on those less than perfect landings , which we all do at one time or another . If you read the above posts from RCU , you will understand what I am doing . Since I fly off of a grass field , I really need this modification . I included a picture , that shows the bottom sheeting removed .

Later

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Good Evening

Working on the wing . The ailerons and flap hinging have been hinged , there is a slight deveation on one wing tip , but other than that they came out straight . I finished removeing the sheeting and webs from the other wing . takeing it apart was not time consuming at all . it took me about an hour and a half , I took a few breaks and the fact that I work at a pace that I like . As you can see in the picture I ve taken it down to the bare bones , that webing was not glued in well at all . Plywood will be replaceing the webs and I will be adding some tri-stock to the corners and maybe , and I do mean , maybe some fiberglass . I m glad I m doing this modification , I do not think that it would of lasted long on a grass field

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Hi

Very windy day here in Quebec , might as well build ( or reconstruct )

I ve decided to go one step further . The ribs that the retract mounts are on , I will call ribs #4 and #5 , with the #4 being closer to the root . If you take a look at the picture , you will see that each rib has two doublers , one on each side of each rib , this makes them 3/8 thick . If you noitice in the pictures the doublers do not reach behind the spars . Only the center rib is reaching behind , and even than you can see that there was a web , leaveing a gap , half the height of the rib . Which means that there is onlt about one inch , by 1/8 thick holding the whole half side of the mounting block . Now I know why all the threads about the weak retract mounting system of the TopFlite P-51 Giant

Here is my solution :

I will be makeing the same modification as Gary in RCU , but I will add a little extra . I will put doublers for the doublers in front of the spars . These doublers will reach behind the plywood webs that I will install , which will be behind the spars . This will strengthen the retract mounts . The amount of wood that is involved is mimimal , but it will add a whole percentage of support . I beleve that it is stronger than fiberglassing it

I hope that someone understands what I ve just wrote .

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Hi

Its raining here in Quebec , and I find comfort in my workroom .

I ve worked on modifying the ribs that support the retract rails . These ribs do not go behind the spars , and I have decided to make sure that they do . It took 16 pieces 2 inch by 2 1/2 inch to do the job ( maybe a little less than that ) What it does is distribute the impact of the less that perfect landing , to the whole wing and not just the ribs , thats the way they were built , very poorly . One thing also that I did not appreciate is the fact that it was with hot glue , instead of epoxy, the less expensive way , to cut costs .

To-morrow I will add the ply-wood webs , its suppose to be a rainy day . But I will try and get some time to fly , if I can , and if weather permits

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Hi
Finally finished the reconstruction of the retract area . I made templates to fit each bay . It took a while , but its finally complete . All thats left to do is put some shims onder the covering to attach the top sheeting and all is complete . I will most likely put resin and fiberglass on to of the repair sheeting , just to add to the overall strength of the covereing

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Hi
I have started to work on other parts of the wing . I checked out the hatches for the servos and the are very tight fitting . I removed the Monokote and will pass them throught my dremel table saw , and take off a 1/64 form two sides . While they are uncovered , I will drill the holes for the attaching screws . This can be done all at the same time , this way it will be more precice . I also worked on the hardwood wing joiner , sanding the beveled side the wings will go to-gether easyly. Next is prepareing the wing halfs for sheeting by adding some small balsa squares so that the sheeting will have something to rest on .

I have included a picture of what I am trying to avoid . Notice the retract , its in one piece . The assembler reinforced the retract bay , but everything around it broke up in pieces . What I m trying to do is the exact opposite . I have reinforced everything around and left the retract mounting plate weak , so that if there is a hard landing only the retract will be removed , kind of like a formula1 race car . The ones that hit the wall , and the car explodes into a million pieces , and than you see the driver walk away

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Hi

I have decided to do something different to-night and give myself a little eye candy . Here is a picture of my DA-50r with the XOAR 22x8 prop and the P-51 spinner that came with the kit . Took about 15 minuts to do aaaaalllllll that , looks great thought , don t you think

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Hi

Well , I ve been busy , I picked up my servos for this bird . For the rudder , elevaters , and flaps , I ll be outting Hitec HS-5625 MG and maybe also on the ailerons . I picked up 7 Hitec HS-5625 MGs in all . For the throudle and the retracts I will be useing mini servos .

flaps= 2
ailerons = 2
elevaters = 2
rudder = 1
Throttle = 1
retract = 1
channel 7 on the transmitter will be used for the KILL switch on the engine

Also , I do not like the way the main retract doors are to be attached . I will be putting a hing at the mechanical end , and than use ball links , attached to the struts to close the doors . It will be the first time that I am doing this , so it should be interresting
Later

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Hi

I have been working on the servo hatchs . I have also taken the time to remove the covering from the hatchs for the reason the hatchs did not fit well at all , the fit was very tight . I took off about 1/32 from too sides , which left for a snug fit . I also drilled the holes for the screws that attach the hatchs , they were accuratly drilled . There are lazer marks to indicate were to put the screws , but these were , out of alignment . I also put a very light ply inside the wing were the servo wires excite the wing . I did this for the reason being , I find that after a time the balsa breaks -up after playing with the wires so much , it looks ugly .

Well I did a NO-NO , My fingers hit a prop this week-end , DO NOT DO THIS .

Michel

[michel gravelle]

Hi
Well the servos are installed on the hatch-covers . I m really taking my time with this assembly , all the hatchs were marked with lines to find the true center , and all the blocks for the servos were also lined . I must admite that I like neetness and straightness . I even made a template for the servos . This template also includes the spaceing that is needed for the spaceing at the ends and on the sides . The spaceing for the servos were 10.2 x 48.4 mm . . Go figer ............ you would think that they would make it an even number , like 10 x 48 mm , it would of been that much simpler.

Since the picture uploads are not working , I ll post a picture when it is available

Michel