[Guest]

Well this project is going to be the most nerve-racking project yet! It is a Art Hobby 3M Electric assist glider with a T-tail. I checked with Andre of Art Hobby and they use the same fuselage for the e-glider as the pure glider. If I had more experience I would likely leave the fuse as a pure glider.

As I don't want to bore anyone with every detail of a build, I will only report the major achievements!

The nervousness come from having to cut in the flaps and ailerons out of a black poplar covered, foam filled wing. Could get interesting!

[pipercub17]

cool
going to be a fun glider man
cant wait to see more pics

[Guest]

I have read the set-up instructions a couple times and am still puzzled (which isn't unusual) about the wing panels. I get that the two center sections will be permanently attached to each other. The outer sections have two carbon fiber dowels. Does this mean, for transport the tips are removed?


If this is the case, how do I keep them together for flying? I plan on reading the instructions again, I have never had a second chance to make my first mistake!

[Jan Blom]

Whoa! Cool purchase. Wing tips are usually held on with tape. Sometimes they are snug enough without it. Perhaps something tacky on the rods would help. For cutting the flight surfaces I would put masking tape either side of the cut leaving a gap just wide enough for the saw. Veneer can splinter easily. Use a fine tooth saw, I often use a new fine hacksaw blade (just the blade, finer control).

Please bore us with the details its lousy weather around here lately!

[Guest]

Ha! After I posted on the crappy weather site, it started snowing here. I am trying to source sealer and Laquer as Andre specifically says to finish the wing surfaces first then cut in the ailerons, servo bays and flaps. As the Black poplar skins are only .4mm thick, a new scalpel blade will likey do the trick. Andre suggested this method, but I think I will still tape my steel ruler to the line!

I am just trying to decide if I should finish the wing surface, then epoxy them together or put them together first and then finish the surface. Oh, the decisions!

[Jan Blom]

Are you going to put colour on the wing? I would recommend it. I have used dye's mixed with the polyurethane before with good results.I had a HLG with a balsa sheeted wing that I did this way with yellow on top and red on the bottom. It showed up real well. The red was a little pinky but it was the best colour I've had on a wing bottom. A test piece is recommended of course and not held responsible for any unhappy colour choices : )

[Guest]

I bought sealer and clear Laquer (satin finish), so any orientation strips will be with Krylon Fusion (sp). I was wondering what went good with wood-grain. Seems that some of the glider jockeys will use real brite colors and rough them up so they don't glare. The wing on this thing is pretty flat, it might go stealth on me!

I can only work on this thing when it rains or spraying season is over. If all works out I can commit some time to it next week (now I have probably jinxed myself). I have a few questions for Andre, as I was supplied some different wiring ends.

I am likely over my head on putting this puppy together. WOuldn't be quite so bad if any future parts didn't have to come across that damn 49th parallel. As it is the sucker went from Billings MT to the "Gay Bay", then to Hongcouver (for a extended visit at Customs) and finally to me, then I get whacked 35 bucks in duty.

[Jan Blom]

On my one obechi veneer wing I sprayed acrylic enamel yellow on top. I should of left it at one coat as it had nice transparency but put a 2nd one on. Its a heavy paint as well and it really spits on application. Previous to the finish I had sealed the wings with epoxy and micro balloons. I regreted doing that as well, my batch started hardening before I was done. Then I cracked my flap by pressing too hard on it while sanding. That was over 15 years ago but the plane still flies today.

[Dale Hunter]

I have had Obechi covered wing once. Was impressed with both strength, durability, and realitive lightness. If I was doing it again I would simply use clear photo finishing mylar (old C/L combat material). Paint gets heavy quick, and the mylar may be better suited to a rain encounter.

Glad to perscribe to your thread Brent.

-Dale-



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[Guest]

Dale, I asked Andre about Mylar, he was adamant about not using it. He figures it may lead to wing warp. I don't know but anything that is put on a wing could lead to warping.

I guess the better question is: Does paint or Laquer breath?