[jtec/radiowave]

Gordon,

Not sure why the instructions say wait on F8 but I will check with Kevin and we will go over the instructions.

Anytime you see something that may be confusing or you think there maybe a better way we are always open to suggestions.

By the way you and Alan are doing a great job on the build.

Al

[Trumpetman]

Thanks Al. It seems like the manual assumes that F8 can be put in later. This airframe however has tabs on F8 that go into slots in the rear fuselage doubler. I suppose you could spread the sides of the fuselage apart but I don't see why it couldn't be in place like the other formers. I realized this before any harm was done while doing a dry test fit.

[Trumpetman]

The other fuselage side was glued and clamped. Can't have enough clamps A little tip: It takes a fair bit of time to get glue on all of the edges and surfaces of the formers and the plywood fuselage sides. I normally use LePage Express wood glue (only needs 10 minutes of clamping time) but for a big layup like this, I use Elmers Probond. It is a much slower setting wood glue and it won't "skin over" as fast as the Express glue. To ensure a straight, no twist fuselage I again use weights to hold everything to the flat build table while the glue sets up.

I also spliced the 1/4" sq. spruce sticks that will become the stringers on the bottom of the fuselage.

[bigguy]

SUBD.

Looks good Gordan!

[Trumpetman]

Worked on the bottom of the plane while it is easily accessible (ie. before the stringers get glued in place). The first pictures shows the aluminum angles that JTec supplies. This is supposed to be bolted to the motor box sides and then the landing gear bolts to the angle. I like the Carden approach of bolting the gear to threaded hardwood rails. The second picture shows the maple rails (3/4" square) that have been epoxied to the motor box sides. The maple sticks (3.3 ounces) are a bit heavier than the aluminum (1.6 ounces) but they spread the load over a larger area and have worked well for me in my bigger plane.

I made two other modifications by adding 1/4" spruce diagonal bracing in the space between the formers (hopefully to reduce fuselage twisting). I also added a little gusset to help solidify the connection between the fuselage sides and the tail gear plate.

Before I install the bottom stringers I'll install the motor and start working on the tuned pipe mounts.

[jtec/radiowave]

Gordon,

The landing gear mount is a design we have used back to the ARF kits for 15 years. Here is the advantage. Its light, its strong and if you have that bad landing it won't tear up the engine box or wood parts. The aluminum will absorb the shock and bend. At that point hopefully the most you have to do is replace the angled aluminum piece.

Al

[jtec/radiowave]

The one thing about building a kit is you can make the modifications you want.

Al

[Scrappy]

Between Gordon's thread and the manual I am getting mine done with no issues so far, albeit I am a few steps behind but that is on purpose...

Great job (as usual!) Gordon!

[Trumpetman]

I'm using a tail wheel that needs a support block underneath so that structure was added before gluing the tail gear plate in place. As stated above, JTec's design for mounting the main gear is proven to work well (I just like to tinker... )

[Scrappy]

I just noticed we are using the same tail wheel... and I also beefed up that tail gear plate in a similar manner.