|06-01-2010, 12:05 AM||#11|
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Re: Blade SR help
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Although the frame has improved from the Blade CP / CP Pro / CP Pro 2. The head is still the same as a Blade CP so you can pretty much expect it to fly the same.
I'm not sure what radio they give you with the SR and how much adjustment you can do. With a DX6i you have a lot of options to tame it down.
It may be helpful to look at tricks in making the Blade CP or CP Pro more tame as it is the same head.
Before you go do a wild internet search let me suggest a few minor things.
The CP heads have a few things that newbies have trouble with:
- Sticky collective.
- Slow responding cyclic with fast airframe = crash into walls.
- Can be blown around by the wind too easily.
Sticky collective describes the tendency for the heli to not want to take off and then suddenly jump into the air. This is because the servos aren't quite strong enough to overcome the binding on the main shaft. The cheapest fix is to just put some plastic safe grease on the sliding parts I use ATV powersport all weather grease myself but any grease would work. If the SR comes with DS75 digital servos weak servos are most likely not the issue although if your inclined to you can try a set of hxt500 / hxt900 (very cheap $4 servos) to see if that solves the issue. Trailing edge control also contributes to jumpy collective this is because the feathering shaft is "free floating" on dampers. When the blades gain lift they actually compress the tops of the dampers (o-rings) by a small amount. Because the control is trailing edge this causes a tiny bit of pitch to also be added and thus causes more pitch than you intended.
Grip flip mod
This mod can help you overcome both the sticky collective. Be aware you will not be able to do this with the stock radio. If you have a programmable radio after you perform this mod you need to change the swash mix for the collective movement to the opposite direction. What you want to do is flip the grips the mixers and the seesaw bars you will end up with blade grips upside down and the control link coming from the leading edge. Because the SR is neutral delta you should not gain any positive affects from correcting delta nor should you see any other improvement other than smoother more dampened collective response.
Slow responding cyclic
The first few learning days I would say don't do this adjustment you probably think the heli is super fast responding as it is and it is setup to prevent you from over correcting by purposely making the heli respond slowly. As time goes on however you soon realize that this little heli gets into trouble real fast and it would be nice to have better cyclic control to stop it from hitting walls or trees. This is by far the easiest fix all you need to do is to move the weights in from the ends of the flybar paddles toward the center of the rotor hub. Experiment move them in half-way first (remember to measure and match both). Then move them in all the way. Most pilots say that once they got used to the faster speed it was much better behaved they did not have to think ahead of the heli so many steps in order to prevent an obstacle related crash.
Gets be blown around by the wind too easily
This is basically caused by the rotor disk being too light. The stock woodies are astoundingly light. They are great when you crash because they absorb almost all the impact energy but they are not great for general stability of a beginner. In order to gain more in the wind stability it is necessary to increase your gyroscopic stability remember that heavy tops stay put better than light ones. I would recommend you find either plastic blades or fiberglass blades to install into your heli. Plastic blades have an advantage that they are usually quite durable they can survive several newbie crashes and will often stay at balanced in weight even with dings. Plastic blades are also slightly flexible so they help slow down the heli by adding flex. Fiberglass can be slightly lighter than plastic blades but are very stiff they are better suited if you want to start aerobatics but can be used for general hovering as well. Because of the stiffness they will not be as forgiving as plastics. Both fiberglass and plastic blades are heavier and as such put much more load on the head during a crash. Plastic blades won't break but they will break another weak sacrificial part on the head. Fiberglass blades might chip or break depending on how hard they go in but they are also rigid so can also hurt the head more.
Pilot flying style adjustments
1# learn to fly using the RADDS method: http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html
Regardless of what kind of helicopter you are talking about I would always suggest starting with radds. If it is easy you'll just end up advancing through the steps faster. The worst thing one can do is try and progress beyond their current ability resulting in costly crashes. Most of the time newbie's don't know enough about their machine to restore it to proper operation so they just try and fly a broken machine with failure until they realize there's more broken then they first thought.
If you've already crashed the heli (and we consider crashing any case where the blades don't just touch air). Then this is why you find it so unstable. Even if the blade SR looks fine there are many small things that may be bent or broken.
The most common components that may remain broken but hidden after a crash are:
- Feathering Shaft
- Main Shaft
- Servo Gears
- Flybar Bent
To inspect the feathering shaft take off both blades and stick an allen wrench into the grip and spin. Any slight wobble observed means it's bent and needs replacing.
Main shaft can be inspected by removing the head assembly and spinning up the heli (without the head components). It should be easy to see if the shaft is not perfectly straight when spinning it up. Another way is to use a marker and mark the shaft if it is not perfectly round you will find "gaps" in the marks.
Finally any serious crash the servos should be inspected move them through their entire range of movement by hand and if you feel any broken teeth you need to replace or repair the servo.
The flybar is another more obvious component that could've gone First you want to take a ruler to check both the flybar is straight from a top down view and a side view. Then you need to make sure both paddles are flat to the flybar cage.
Good luck and feel free to PM me if you have more questions I was a newbie once too There's also a lot similar in the SR and CP airframes so I can speak with experience on a few things.
Last edited by vortex05; 06-01-2010 at 12:30 AM.
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