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Old 07-15-2010, 07:27 AM   #21
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Re: Coiling the antenna

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We are getting quit specific, now if I had some dimensions where to start! I would appreciate it.

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Old 07-15-2010, 09:37 AM   #22
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Re: Coiling the antenna

Originally Posted by kip51035 View Post
We are getting quit specific, now if I had some dimensions where to start! I would appreciate it.

This was posted at the beginning, and after reading this thread, this seems to be your best bet:

Originally Posted by Spitball View Post
I have had considerable success with an idea that approximates "distributed loading" by winding the 39" antenna around a thicker drinking straw with one turn the first inch, two the next inch, then four the next and so on, doubling the turns until you close-wind it on the last bit; about 6" of winds on a typical 7" straw. Punch holes through the straw to secure each inch of winds. It seems to work pretty well but I would be careful about shortening the antenna too much on these little Park Flier receivers, they don't have much range to spare. Haven't done any carefully controlled tests but my bit of knowledge of antennae in general, likes the idea.
Motto - 'Range Check, range check, then once again!'
Hitec Feather receiver actually give a small card former to wind a bit of the antenna, as does one of the P/Flier ARFs I believe. Wind a single smooth layer without crossing the wires. Even up to half the length, I'd say. It depends on how far you're likely to stray from yourself too!
Sorry to be long-winded.
Question: the first wind =1 turn @ 1"- is that the end closer to the reciever and then working OUT. or is that from the other end and working IN ???

Last edited by Max; 07-15-2010 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:04 PM   #23
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Re: Coiling the antenna

Thanks Max - have actually reread my Lab Notebook and found my straws!! Heck, dimensions are not critical but a standard MacDonald's red striped straw about 7,5mm diam. 205mm (8") long, divided into eight spaces each about 24mm (15/16") leaving a few mm at each end. Punch a hole for the wire at each division and wind away - I see I've wound 1 turn, 1.4 turns (square root of 2), 2, 3, 4, 6, eight and a half, and the last close wound. You'll find that this uses all the 39" or so. These things are not critical but being a puritan ..... (grin!) If you feel you can wind it in a smooth progression, by all means but in steps as above is a very close approximation.
Leave enough wire at the receiver end to maneuver the straw into a satisfactory position.
Hey it works for me but I'm happier using it with my BERG 4Ls which are full range receivers so beware of little GWS or Futaba micros, as they have limited range already (range check, etc., etc.) But for smaller Park Fliers and Indoor fliers, this is certainly cheap and you can unwind them and you've got the original antenna wire still attached.
Really dead easy (piece of cake!)
P,S, For peace of mind do a range check before you wind the straw and again afterward and compare (and post how the result was, pse.!)
Sorry Max; missed your query - yes the one turn is closest to the receiver and the close wound is at the free end. All to do with "current distribution"! That's what any loading does; and the earlier poster, the round antennae of which you speak almost always has a ferrite rod core.

Last edited by Spitball; 07-15-2010 at 07:15 PM.
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