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Old 03-16-2011, 09:24 PM   #11
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Re: glueing coroplast

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Hi Guys,
Been building and designing ww2 combat planes for awhile and I use Med CA all the time.
Like Bob R. above said, plus.... Use kicker, it heats up and bonds well.

I have tried different types of glues. The best for coroplast was Flash but no longer....
If you can get it, it's called Parfix 200, same as Flash, same bottle, same label on the back.

If you are in toledo there is a guy in the corner that sells it, If you want some and can not go there, let me know by April 1 and I would happy to buy it for you and ship ( just pay for the glue and shipping only). Email at

The next best is Great Planes and Hobby king glue. Zap is crap for gluing coroplast.

I should know about using CA on coroplast, lost track about 30+ planes.

Another tip.... sometimes too much CA is worse!

Bring it on!!! If your man enough....
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Old 12-31-2011, 04:11 AM   #12
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Re: glueing coroplast

Keeping it really simple a glue gun in areas where no tricky fitting is required because of dry time works great. I just built a 3D something or other with Park 35 and 40A esc HXT 900 servos and have aprox ten flights with no signs of anything letting go. Did not even bother cleaning joint areas! I used l real estate signs from a friend...
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:01 AM   #13
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Re: glueing coroplast

I would tend to believe Johnny G. He has probably sold more coro kits than anyone. I just thought I would say I got a couple of corro combats that look like contact cement was used, and both of them had the trailing edge separating probably from fuel and old age. I know most planes don't get that old. I tried cyano after cleaning with acetone and it didn't hold, so I used Nano (polyurethane) and it is good. I know for cars and painting it is always grease and wax remover before sanding. I tried a sample with grease and wax remover, scotchbright, and a woodpecker to be the best on a couple of trials with a polyethylene foam. I scraped with a credit card to keep the weight down as it foams up anyway to fill the voids. I have heard of using a heavy duty stapler here and there too just to be sure. I have a box stapler that I haven't tried yet!!? There is also a guy called XJET that had been using a hot glue gun after a good cleanig for 90 degree and butt joints with some success. I tried a sample and it was good. It needs a high setting with a good gun, and keep the tip touching the plastic for more heat. The gun works great on low setting for foam too.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:58 PM   #14
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Re: glueing coroplast

Yes Ca is fine to use. long time Coro builder and pilot. best gluing but strechy is goop it would be best for sure but for combat planes and cold weather ca is fine. I can say i never had joints come loose on a 100 mph combat plane tumbling across the ground on open throttle with ca.
Fly em and crash em.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:19 PM   #15
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Re: glueing coroplast

I was just wondering if the clear or purple PVC plumbing glue might work after a good cleaning with acetone, primer or whatever. I have been wanting to try it for a while, but never use the white pipe anywhere in the house. I don't want to buy any glue for something that may not work. I think it dissolves the plastic a bit, and they are similar materials. I tried a test with hot glue that seems ok. Any plumbers out there that want to experiment with the PVC glue?
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:32 PM   #16
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Re: glueing coroplast

I noticed nobody mentioned canopy glue, has anyone tried it?

"If my being here has made your day a little more pleasant then I have done my job" Red Skelton 1913 - 1997 (famous Comedian)
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:17 AM   #17
ron kyle
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Re: glueing coroplast

hi guys im building a 96 inch coro cub and i have used hot glue after scuffing with 80 grit
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:21 AM   #18
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Re: glueing coroplast

Hi Ron
Are you making that 96 inch span one wing or a joined in the middle type? I've been wondering how to make a large span wing, 96 maybe, but was unsure of how to make a 2 piece wing with coroplast and spars construction. Anyone done this?

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