Does this make Sense? - Page 2 - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 02-26-2005, 10:33 AM   #11
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see I agree with what you are all saying but I've had these darn engines in the past that just would NOT respond to a higher nitro fuel...

The main reasons for the change were what the LHS had in stock..(now that doesnt seem to be a problem in the GTA but when I lived out in the sticks...I had to live with what was available...and more than once I've had to buy a gallon (in my younger days) of 30 because I couldn't get the 20..just to have a whole pile of problems..

Tuning seemed to be the end I had to add shims, retune, reseal, change plugs...just to get that gallon though...(oh that horrible engine) IT DIED A HORRIBLE DEATH.....
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Old 02-26-2005, 10:56 AM   #12
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LOL, it sounds like it had it out for you Warlock!!!!

If I have too many problems, I will switch back, thats for sure. I am no master of tuning so I will do what is easiest for me.

But, after inspecting the engine the other night, its in great shape, no scoring, no scratches, and basically from what the seller told me, only had roughly 10 tanks run through it. And it has WICKED compression.

Oh well, I am still learning about all this tuning stuff, picking the easy way out keeps me bashing, but if i take the hard way I might learn something.
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:30 AM   #13
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Hey FearFerretRC,
Is that the same engine I tuned last Monday when you had to catch it?

Old school says, break-in the engine with the fuel you intend to use. Makes perfect common sense.

New school says, do at least a quart of 20N then go to 30N but add a .1MM head shim. Makes perfect sense too if you want your engine to last. This is what I did on all my XTM engines including the Mach 26 on the LST. I did however remove the .1MM head shims after 13Gallons on my 2 XTM 24/7 PRO. I picked up a little more compression but nothing to jump up for. Those engines are still running good.

The only thing I do when breaking-in a new engine is heat cycle it so the piston and cylinder mates perfectly and lasts a while. I run borderline lean but I will run the egine hot if it means winning a bet. Hottest engine temp I've had is 540F on both 24/7 PROs and still running tough.

30N content actually runs cooler than 20N even more when the SCOB (Synthetic Castor Oil Blend) is less than 18%.

I run the Sidewinder Race 30N12SCOB in all my engines.
I am on the 13th year of my 2nd childhood and I REFUSE TO GROW-UP!
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Old 03-03-2005, 04:21 PM   #14
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Yes, its the engine you tuned the other night.

But from the time I made this post until you tuned it on monday I had been messing with the motor quite a bit, the needle settings.

Thanks again for the helP!!!!!
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