Engine Breakin.. the up and comming method - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 05-07-2005, 05:40 PM   #1
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Engine Breakin.. the up and comming method

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For those of you that have a set break in method, you may want to read this.. it is becoming "the way"

I know some of us do it this way (not me yet) and swear by it.. I will be doing it on my next engine..


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Old 05-07-2005, 06:06 PM   #2
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ill be doing the same good to know thanks
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Old 06-06-2005, 08:04 AM   #3
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that is basically the exact break in procedure that fantom says to do. in the manual it says a lot about heat cycling and why it is better.

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Old 06-06-2005, 10:45 AM   #4
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I copied what they had to here to make it easier to read. www.rbmods.com/home.php for more stuff from them.

Engine Tempering & Engine Breakin
Reprinted From S-Grid with Stephen Bess's permission</B>

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Rick Brake RB Mods
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power

Use a MC 59 or the hottest plug you can get and burn 30% nitro. Keep your cool and be patient, It will come in to It’s own after about a gallon of fuel. The tolerances are so far out because of the extreme modification that until it is broke in it will not act right. You will cuss the engine and me for selling it to you. So do not start turning needles to try to get it to run right, just enough to keep it running for as long as you can. Then when it starts to break in it will stay running longer and longer. Then one day you will praise the engine and me. Give it a good ½ - ¾ galloon and if you need us to break it in for you. William Copley my National drive does this for 45.00 – 55.00 and any questions as far as I can’t get it to run call William losmosis@losmosis.com Remember the engine is still not broke in until you have about 1 gallon through it so only make 1 hr on the clock adjustments.
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Old 06-06-2005, 07:51 PM   #5
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Heh, I had this method in the back of my head during my picco breakin...I've prlly done an hours worth of heat cycling on mine..running slightly rich, but not factory rich..just to keep the temp down. I did the idle for the first tank tho...doesn't make sense to hit the throttle right away...new parts are new parts..at least give it a minute or two to idle up to warm then start cycling with throttle..but hey what do I know, they're the pros. I'll surely find out somehwere between 4 and 40 gallons.
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Old 06-07-2005, 11:49 AM   #6
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I do still idle it but know you need the temps up around 200 degrees to heat cycle, so I lean out right away to get it going. idling over rich is a waste of fuel and time.
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:01 PM   #7
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Well I Tried this Break-in Method,

I thought my First Mach had Lots of Power and was Fast,( still is,But need a New Shaft for the Oneway)
But the New one is CRAZY Fast and I only have a Half Gallon threw my Engine so far,I must say it seemed Odd to Just Start Driving but it Works!
I Flipped my Truck 5 or 6 times and I Don't even have it Tuned up yet,I can't wait to get Over a Gallon so I can see how Much Power this Engine is Going to have.
O-yea I marked the Flywheel at BDC,So I could tell where the Piston is for Cooling, It makes it very Easy.
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:07 PM   #8
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Thanks for the tip! Im buying my new engine soon and will do the break in to this proceedure. This should be saved somewhere where everyone can see, its very important for new engine break ins!
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Old 06-10-2005, 04:36 PM   #9
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I come from doing airplane engines and always idled 2 tanks slightly rich, reving it now and again. then on the 3rd tank I would fly it, just not full throatle much. I did the same thing with my truck. I still have plane engines from, well lets just say well over 10 years ago and they still run great.
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Old 06-21-2005, 03:49 PM   #10
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stupid newbie question

I have been doing electric for many many years, and have never broken in my own nitro before.
I understand most of what was said in doing the break in method by heat cycling, but how do I know when the piston is BDC ( I assume that means bottom dead center) Hopefully I don't have to take the engine apart to figure out this position.
I was planning on getting a new nitro vehicle and doing the old fashioned way, but this way sounds easier, just harder to figure out how to put the engine into that position after each break in period.

Thanks in advance.
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