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Old 05-30-2007, 11:07 PM   #11
NS
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HobbyHobby in Mississauga has (or had) 18 TZ's.

Make sure you get the right crank shaft for your application.
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Old 05-31-2007, 07:03 PM   #12
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well mine and my buddies gt do 55mph he has a cvr and i had a .18 vertex engine his is on you tube under rc10 gt eating pavement its fast but we have a 24 tooth clucth bell and a 56 spur gear it does 60 watch the video with a tz and a better spur gear it will fly i will be sure to buy a radar gun instead of following it done a country road in a car and my remote out the window.haha
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Old 05-31-2007, 07:05 PM   #13
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well mine and my buddies gt do 55mph he has a cvr and i had a .18 vertex engine his is on you tube under rc10 gt eating pavement its fast but we have a 24 tooth clucth bell and a 56 spur gear watch the video with a tz and a better spur gear it will fly i will be sure to buy a radar gun instead of following it done a country road in a car and my remote out the window.haha
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rc10gt 18 cvr

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Old 05-31-2007, 07:18 PM   #14
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I don't know about SB's, but isnt the 18TZ more of an on-road engines?
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Old 05-31-2007, 09:52 PM   #15
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I don't think so, I'm pretty sure Chewy had one powering his Revo for a while
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Old 06-10-2007, 08:06 AM   #16
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Angry

ya i ended up buying a cvr from hobby hobby and it was not working the piston was jamming every time i pulled the pullstart they sold me a defective engine so i ended up dremmel the piston sleeve to get it to work is this normal for a new enigne or was i ripped
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rc10gt 18 cvr

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Old 06-10-2007, 08:27 AM   #17
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when the engine is new, the piston fits very tightly in the cylinder until it is broken in. you need to run about 20 tanks of fuel through it at very rich settings to be sure you don't damage it during this critical phase. you definitely should not have taken a dremel to the cylinder, you just might have ruined your engine unfortunately. if you've done something different than what i'm thinking, post it so we know what advice to give you. also, heating the engine with a heat gun or a really good hair dryer before you try to start make it easier because the parts expand a bit because they are closer to operating temperature. hope this helps.

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Old 06-10-2007, 08:20 PM   #18
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ya i dremmeled it already it runs it seems to be fast but i will see in the near future thanks
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Old 06-11-2007, 02:32 PM   #19
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we used the buffer to dremel the sleeve and it was too tight like it was the last one they made before changing the tools on the CNC Mill. We had to hit the piston soo hard on the top to get it to go back down it wasnt even close to spec. The buffing head wouldn't polish enough away to get it to even pull a little so we took the white grinding stone head to the top part of the sleeve after the ports. I took the stone around twice inside the sleeve prolly took off 2-3 thousands of an inch. We didnt touch the port area and tested after ever rotation of the dremel. It made it loose enough that its still super hard to pull. You need to weigh over 200lbs to pull start it im surprised it doesnt snap the pull start. I used to work at a machine shop for 15 years so im sure his sleeve is fine and now it starts but its still very tight. I bet they changed the tools right after his sleeve was made. The piston shouldn't get stuck that means the sleeve is too small. I've made plenty of things with pistons and sleeves and this was by far the tightest fit i've ever seen. If i had honing stones i would have used them but no luck with those.

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