T4 Setup - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:18 AM   #1
I am: Boolean21
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Post T4 Setup

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My old T4 thread is gone

Please post any setup tips for the T4. I also lost my PM's for those who PM'd me.


I will be starting with the FT setup on the AE website so no need to post that.
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:14 PM   #2
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Driver: Jeff Craft
Track / City: Sid's Raceway / Milton, ON
Event: Off Road Rage '07
Date: 06/24/2007

Front Shock Mounting & Camber Link
Shock-Top: Middle
Shock-Bottom: Outer
Camber-Tower: Outer
Camber-Hub: Outer
# Washers: 1
Camber: 0 deg
Ride Height: Arms Level

Toe-in (+)/Out (-): +1 deg Toe out
Bump Steer Spacer: 1
Axle Height: Middle
Caster: 25 deg
Steering Block: Trailing

Rear Shock Mounting & Camber Link
Shock-Top: Inner
Shock-Bottom: Inner
Camber-Tower: Inner
Camber-Hub: Middle
# Washers: 2
Camber: -3 deg
Ride Height: Bones Level

Anti-Squat: 2 deg
Wheelbase: Long
Anti-Roll Bar: none

Front Shocks
Spring (color): Silver
Oil: 30wt
Piston #: 2
Shaft: unobtanium
# Limiters: 3

Rear Shocks
Spring (color): Green
Oil: 30wt
Piston #: 1
Shaft: unobtanium
# Limiters: 3

Front Tires & Wheels
Tires: Losi A-7505 (similar to Pro-line ribbed)
Inserts: Std
Wheels: Pro-line

Rear Tires & Wheels
Tires: Pro-line Holeshot M3
Inserts: Std
Wheels: Pro-line

Radio: Airtronics MX-3
Servo: Futaba S9402
ESC: LRP Quantum Competition
Drag Brake: 0
Initial Brake: 0
Batteries: Intellect 3600mAh
Battery Placement: spacers in front: 2
Battery Placement: spacers in rear: 0

Motor & Wind: Reedy Ti 12x2
Brushes: Trinity Silver Serated
Spring: Std
Pinion/Spur: 19/87

Body: Associated
Spoiler: Std
Chassis: Graphite Composite

Med Traction

Qualified 1st in the B-Main. Bumped to A-Main
Qualifying was bad. Track was dry and dusty. Had to set punch control to "5"
Running 1deg of front toe out helped steering a lot. Stability was good.
Drove well in the Mains.
Peterborough Monster R/C Club
"Practice does not make perfect, practice makes Permanent! Do it right or don't do it at all!"
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Old 08-02-2007, 09:25 AM   #3
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T4 set-ups

Thats great crafty Thanks!!!

Anyone out there have different set ups, please post. Especially those running li-po's and brushless, anybody make setup changes? lighter shock fluid or anything like that?
Associated SC10
Durango DESC410R
Mugen ECO
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:17 PM   #4
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Like most pro setups, this is a great place to start http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh..._Nats_2006.pdf I use this setup, but I have silver springs all around and Im going to try the 25degree caster again. This setup has really good traction and handling.
Jay Lovegrove
Mugen MBX6E
Mamba Max Esc 1800 Neu-Castle Motor
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Old 08-02-2007, 06:20 PM   #5
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Calvin told me the secret...

The proline Blade tire for the front...

The tire is just unreal for front grip!!!
2006 RC10B4
2006 RC10T4 FactoryTeam
1989 RC10 Graphite
1984 RC10 OldGold
Tekin RC10MidEngineConversion

Spektrum DX3
Mamba 4600 system
MaxAmps 5000
Sphere Competition ESC
Novak 7.5 L
Yuntong 5000
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Old 08-04-2007, 11:00 AM   #6
I am: Boolean21
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Diff question

My T4's diff seems really loose. Can I tighten it while it's still in the truck or do I need to take it all apart? How tight should it be? When I ran it on the bench it made some griding noise. Is that the diff being too loose? or the slipper to tight? or the other way around? Or am I way off?
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Old 08-04-2007, 11:24 AM   #7
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When you hear a "barking" sound it usually is the diff being too loose.

When you hear a high pitch whining sound for more than 2-4 feet it usually means the slipper is to loose.

This is the procedure I use for checking the diff and slipper:

- Remove the spur/pinion gear cover.
- Tighten the slipper so that it is locked out (tighten all the way)
- Hold the passenger side rear wheel and the spur gear from turning with your right hand.
- Lift the drivers side rear wheel with your left hand and attempt to turn it.
It should be very difficult to turn if the diff is set properly. If not then readjust the diff by removing the passenger side dog bone and bottoming out the diff adjustment screw and then back it off 1/8th of a turn.
- Now you can adjust your slipper by backing it off roughly 4 turns and then perform the test mentioned above (hold right wheel and turn left wheel).
This time the left wheel should turn with a small to moderate amount of force.
- Turn the truck on and from a standing start, apply full throttle you should hear the slipper slipping for the first 2-4 feet (high pitch whine).

Now after making sure the diff and slipper are set properly, hold the spur gear from turning and turn one of the rear wheels. If it feels smooth you are good to go. If it feels crunchy then it's time to replace the parts in the diff.

P.S. Make sure that the diff adjustment screw is on the passenger side not the drivers side. Otherwise it will keep loosening itself.
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Old 08-05-2007, 07:54 AM   #8
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Thanks. The problem ended up being the pinion
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