|09-19-2007, 08:22 AM||#1|
RCC Junior Contributor
Join Date: May 2006
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hey guyz!...i need somebody who could help/give me an idea of tuning my carb for thunder tiger PRO 70...tnx..
|10-03-2007, 07:38 AM||#5|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Total Props: 0
Yup, used this system for awhile before buying a temp gun.
|11-20-2007, 07:38 PM||#7|
RCC Supreme Contributor
Join Date: May 2004
Total Props: 0
Taken from the GRID...
From Ron Hopkins of WERKS
Michael, I understand what info you are trying to find. Being candid
their is no in the ballpark starting point for break in because of all
of the variables that I listed before. And unless all of the accessories
and bolt ons (pipes etc) are controlled as in an RTR anyone that tells
you otherwise is telling tales. As I've often mentioned on here just
changing the pipe can have as much as a complete turn difference on a
needle, fuel can be the same. So say that we give you an
in-the-ballpark starting point for break in of 4 turns out on the L/S.
But you are running a different plug and pipe and fuel and let’s just say
that it's really humid there too. So maybe a rich setting for your
configuration would be 6 turns out on the L/S. So if you followed our
in-the-ballpark recommended settings you probably destroyed your engine.
So again people are waaaay to dependent on being told where to set my
needles to. Try to get away from this Michael, in the long run it's
going to save you a LOT of grief. So now you may say ok, so what do I do
when I get a new motor without some one telling me where to set the
needles to??? Simple and this system will work if some one hands you a
random motor that you have never even seen before. First if you want to
know the stock from factory needle settings simply turn the needles in
and count the turns. Write it down and set the carb back to factory
needle setting (see we just found out what they are and now have a
starting point if we ever get out of whack. Now install in vehicle,
on box remove air filter. On a new engine put a couple of drops of after
run or fuel down the glow plug hole and crank the engine over a bit on
the box then start motor. Once engine starts slowly turn in the idle
screw a couple hours at a time until you see an air gap (slide is open)
of 3-4mm. When you are doing this the idle will increase, simply richen
the low speed needle to bring it back down and get a steady smooth,
consistent idle. Now you are rich on the LS needle, perfect for break
in. Each tank just lean the LS a couple of hours, idle will increase.
Simply reduce the idle using the idle screw to offset. Easy as pie.
Now if this was a broken in engine and we were out of whack I would just
start the engine one the box. Remove the air filter, set the slide so
that it is open around 1.5mm (thickness of a credit card) using the idle
screw and see how it idles. If the idle is low that means the LS needle
is too rich, simply lean it a couple of hours until the idle increases
and is smooth/steady. If the idle is too high that means that you LS is
to lean just richen it until you have a smooth steady, consistent idle.
Once this is done your LS is in the ballpark, putt the car around until
it is warmed up and do a couple of high speed runs to set you HS needle
(based on performance, smoke and to an extent temp) and then come back
and fine tune your LS needle for snap. Do a high speed pass come to a
complete stop. The idle of the engine should drop down within 3-5
seconds. Let it run at the slow idle for around 5 seconds and then punch
off at full throttle. If it bogs and hesitates lean your LS needle
roughly an hour because this means it's loading up. Keep on doing until
the idle drops back down and then you can accelerate away with hardly any
to no hesitation while still blowing smoke. Now you should be done and
you never needed a needle setting!
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