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Old 05-18-2008, 09:50 PM   #1
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Leaky Losi 8 Shocks? Muggy, 8T, monster beetle

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a few quick fixes for your leaky losi shocks along with some of the finer points of shock building

* before you start inspect each shock and note where it is leaking from

1. disassemble and clean all parts with denatured alcohol (i prefer carb cleaner it's cheap and wont swell o-rings and it comes in a high pressure spray can) remove the pistons to and work the screw in and out a few times to clean up any old loctite (then carb cleaner screw & hole on the shaft) remember to use a shop towel between your shock shafts and pliers as not to dammage the shaft as this will chew the sh*t out of the o-rings you are about to install (removing the ball ends is not usually nessesary)

2. inspect the shock shafts with a magnifying glass for any damage if they are damaged replace with the schnazzy titanium nitride coated ones

3. either buy the schnazzy losi shock rebuild kit ((LOSA541 $33 @ amainhobbies.com) or just 2 sets of bottom seals (LOSA5429 2.19 @ amainhobbies.com and one set of Ultimate Products o-rings P/N UPD-SOR2060 $2.25) and use one stock o-ring and one of the ultimate ones
and remember to dip them in shock oil or green slime before inserting them into the shock body **do not forget this step**

4. re-assemble the shafts and pistons use plenty of blue lock tite and again remember to use a shop towel between your shock shafts and pliers as not to dammage the shaft!

5. if your shock caps were leaking pick up some teflon tape and wrap it around the top of the housing go clockwise so it will not loosen as you are screwing the caps back on

6. fill the shocks 3/4 full then slowly move the pistons up and down till there are no bubbles left. then fill the shocks the rest of the way

*this next section i expect to catch some flack on because most racers belive that the shocks must be matched perfectly and will agrue this point till they are blue in the face but the new big bore shocks put a very very high strain on thier seals and when properly assembled should have little or no rebound so as not to leak if you do not want to be rebuilding them after every f-ing main.

7. fill the shocks till they are slightly underfilled 1mm below the top of the shock and very very slowly screw on the tops (now you will want to do this as close to the same each pair of fronts and rears) as to let any excess fluid bleed out through the hole in the caps

8. we are racing in the dirt if your shock boots are damaged toss em replace them with new ones (or rubber party ballons cut them long enough not to affect the damping)

9. reassemble all the other bits

*special tips for the obsessive compulsive types out there

S1. before you install your springs take them to your belt sander and sand off just enough so that they will seat perfectly flat this will ensure your spings do not distort and touch the shock body under compression do this to the top and bottom of your spings

S2. while you have the shocks out of the vehicle is a great time to check if there is any binding in the rest of the suspension so before you reinstall the shocks put the car in a stand and check each corner by lifting the suspension arms and letting them fall under thier own weight if there is any binding investigate further the suspension should fall quickly under its own weight

Copywrite (c) STORM the long winded
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:20 PM   #2
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I am: Kevin G
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okay ive seen 2 people like the one above what is going on? we oughta have something to stop these bots

sorry for the off topic post
My baby The Revo 3.3
Tmaxx Project Truck (Waiting for B.Less)
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