The Heli-Baby Revival - Page 4 - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:07 AM   #31
Keyrigger
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival


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In this group, I have put the cockpit floor and back on and started the servo installation. Once those were in, it was time to get the swash plate and servo linkages done. I am waiting until the final setup to determine which arm the ball link will go on in order to have the servo centered and the arm at 90 to the ground. More to come, Take care.

Don
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:54 PM   #32
Keyrigger
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

I got a bit more time to put some parts together and the results are very nice. You can't see the precision in which the head components are made but they are the tightest I have seen yet and not one thing was hard to assemble. With this system, you install the spindle and assemble all bearings, spacers, and thrust bearings together and once that is done, you slip the grip over the bearings and slowly tighten up the four screws that hold the grip onto the assembly.

Next is the boom assembly which is very straight forward. The two mounting bulkheads are made so snug that they must be slightly spread apart while slipping them on the boom. The instructions mention that the gap should be on the top so that you can see how close you bring the ends together. They tell you not to have the tips touch as it will collapse the tube. The pushrod supports are very unique as they are machined from Delrin but have brass inserts where the pushrod rides though. These are simply held onto the tube with electrician's tape, Who Knew???

The stabiliser fins are held on with PCP conduit clamps but need a layer of foam underneath so they don't slide around unless knocked or hit by very hard winds (my original sometimes has the fins slightly askew when I land after some aggressive flying). I put the vertical fin on the opposite side to the manual as I like the fit with the pushrod a lot better. It doesn't bind up on the clamps as on the other side, the rod runs though the one clamp and that, I feel, is not as good as it could be. All for now. take care.

Don
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Old 05-13-2016, 04:03 PM   #33
Keyrigger
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

With the boom on, it was time for the tail rotor. The quality of machining is here with the fitting of the grips over the bearings and onto the collar. The tail rotor guard was made from the original pattern for length but it is not long enough to make the 1975 vintage unit. I have a copy of the old plans that show the shape it needs to be. I picked up some wire and will fit it shortly but in the meantime, the oval one will do.

When it came time to put the remote receivers on, the installation needed two long cables and I only had one. By the time I had got the wire, more had been done than in the first shot of the horizontal remote. I trimmed the seat so that the minimum amount of plastic needed to be removed. It covers up more of the servo area than the prototype I got. This is the first one of the three (my 1975 version, included) that I have built from the ground up even though my original had been nearly re-kitted a couple of times by me, lol. There's lots more to come.

Don
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:17 PM   #34
Keyrigger
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

A friend of mine gave me a bit of a poking about the odd shape of the tail skid. The shape is as a result of being set for the original smaller tail rotor diameter but not the current design. There must have been a number of these made up for the reproduction parts that Gerd has on hand so he found that when bent in the long oval shape, they work. To me and my friend, though, it was just not right. The shape was too weird compared to the original so it was time to fix it.

I had bought wire from an LHS but it was too small so it was on the back burner until today. I found at another shop, a 4' length of 3/32" wire that matched just nice and left enough for a third if I messed either one up. I had to make two for this build and for the prototype that I got without any skid. Taking the drawing in hand, once again, I made up the two parts in very short order. This is now the shape I remember and will keep the much longer blades out of the dirt for sure. Take care.

Don
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:44 AM   #35
Keyrigger
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

It is now time to tackle the cockpit. There is no wrong or right interior detailing as this is a fantasy helicopter that only looks scale, lol. I had already made the interior for the prototype and used that as a basis for this one. At the time, I didn't have the plastic shell housing to go off of so I could only do it by pictures and pure guesswork as to its dimensions. The first one was small so this one had lots more room so it was time to add more instruments and this time, lights. It's fun trying to figure out where to place them and some experimentation is needed but the main trick is to have a diffusion panel at or below the instruments for the best overall results.

I used two 2000MCD clear red LED's and the results were great. I will also use this as the way I will do the next two panels I build for my MH-6 and CH-139. The light controller is the same one I used in my 550 size CH-139 and all the timings will remain as they were. I will have a complete set of navigation and landing lights on this one, using the same timings as I worked out for the CH-139. The landing lights will do dual duty as landing lights and warning lights, just like the CH-139. There is one rotating beacon to go on the chassis/boom mount, one white navigation light to go on the tail housing, and I have not yet worked out where and how I will mount the left/right navigation lights.

I had fun making up the key set and this time, I based it on a measurement of and ignition key for my wife's car, which was at hand on my desk. I was rather surprised at how long it was as I was thinking maybe an inch and a half but it is 3" long. By the tine I reduced it to 1/6th scale and finished, carving and shaping it out of bar plastic, it was just shy of 1/2" long. I used the inside wire from a twist tie as it was easy to shape and strong enough to retain it. I might spend the rest of the day working out the tail navigation light and its harness. That' is for now, take care.

Don
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:55 AM   #36
Keyrigger
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

For the next set, I will show the installation of the electronics. The main difference in the two helicopters is the plate that you can mount the ESC on above the battery box area. It does make it a bit tight for accessing the Velcro strap but I ended up swapping direction and pushing the battery further forward for this build. In the pictures, that is not evident but later ones will show it. I used a CC 85HV for the motor controller and have a CC BEC Pro on the side but I am not sure that I really need it. The current one flies very well with the smaller 10A BEC so I might switch it out once I get one of them from a backorder at the LHS.

I am using one of the newer Skookum 720BE gyros for control and a ScaleRcHelis.com light controller. To the Skookum, I added two DSMX satellite receivers as shown in previous pictures. I hard wired the ESC to the motor as there was a large difference in diameter and in internal wire gauge. I still cannot give the specs for the motor but I was told that Gerd went to Plettenberg to up the power after he had finished testing the prototype and wanted to at least double the power. The first motor had about 842 watts energy and it pretty much matched the original Webra .40's that were popular on the Heli-Baby. He felt that his current customers that were wanting to get one of these reproduction kits would be disappointed in the power so he wanted to increase it so that if a customer wanted to invert the heli in a hover, they could do it. I should be able to tell the difference once I get this one in the air, I hope, lol. Take care.

Don
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:46 PM   #37
Keyrigger
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

For the past number of months, I have been chasing a ghost in my prototype Heli-Baby which might have been just a simple mistake in thinking I had set the swash level correctly. With the production version, a round plate is included that slides under the swash so that you can see and feel if you have the swash links properly set. I slid that under my prototype's swash and the arms were not even close to level, Ah Ha. Well, after very careful measurements of the linkages, all seemed to be in place correctly but the pitch was way up.

It turns out that the swash was changed in the production version to one that is a lot beefier in design and has a taller base to ball link measurement so back to the drawing board. In flight, I could trim out the tendency to climb and the same with the slight bank to the left but as usual, the gyro does not like having any trim set unless it is in the programming itself. Going back and carefully seeing any gaps in the swash leveller, I was able to see gaps in the left and elevator arms that would match any trim I put in the air. I hope this time it cures it as it can cause a lack of confidence in the unit.

So now, it is time to get to the final stages of assembly. There was really nothing much to lining up the holes in the cockpit back and floor then marking and drilling the seat. I am using a spare figure that donated the flight suit to a new figure that will be in the MH-6 once it is done. Even the prototype figure, Bruce Willis, will be getting a new uniform as his will be used for spares to complete the last two men for the MH-6.

I bought a brand new blade balancer from Miniature Aircraft this past winter and this was the perfect candidate to test it out on. There was one item on it that previous owners felt should have been changed and that was the pivot hold to be fitted with bearings and not use machine screw threads as the balance point. It is much more sensitive than my old trusty Heli-Max blade balancer and these "new to me" NHP blades were so close as to be considered perfect for normal use. A small piece of clear cellotape was placed close to the blade cg to get the static balance right on. Spooling up for the first time, and on floats to boot, it didn't wobble a bit and there were no vibrations noticeable on the tail skid which is fairly flexible.

I did the maiden flight at the Burlington club this past Thursday and had my own Yuneec Q500 camera quad video the first hop in the air, complete with run-on landing. I had set the frame so that I could get some of the in-close testing and then I took it for a very short circuit. I asked one of the members to hold the quad controller and give him orders to kit the kill button if called upon to do so. As soon as I work out how to properly format it for viewing, I will post it. I might need to use a pro editing suite to get the video to display and save correctly with intros and exits. Here are some pictures from the maiden in the meantime. Take care.

Don

PS: As promised, if I worked it out, I would post the video. There is no sound as the camera does not have a microphone in it and all you would hear is the fan inside and the sounds of the quad rotors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZFBnyCCTqo
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Last edited by Keyrigger; 05-22-2016 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:22 PM   #38
maxholste1521
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

Hello to All :

I have a Hely Boy original complete that did not see any flying, I brought this machine from Argentina where I originally put together in 1982 for the first time, I our second trip I part it in two pieces and put together for the second time It has an ENYA engine that has not breaking in yet just a few starts and nothing else.
Awaiting to be fitted with a Gyro and set up..... anybody close to where I live to help me ? or accept written recommendations

Thank you RC members.

Alberto
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:28 PM   #39
davis181
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

had one sold while back.
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Old Yesterday, 11:32 PM   #40
Keyrigger
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Re: The Heli-Baby Revival

The only experience I had with a nitro helicopter was nearly forty years ago so I would not be too much help aside from recommending buying a good tail gyro like the Futaba 401, Spartan DS760, or Spartan Quark. These are top notch gyros that will stand up to the vibrations of a nitro engine and keep that tail under control the entire time. You will find them used on many forums so keep your eyes open. Unless you see one in a store for cheap, avoid the knock-offs from China or Hobby King. Your machine cannot be easily replaced and there is no point in doing it half measured. Good luck.

Don
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