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Old 01-20-2004, 07:15 AM   #1
Kevin McGrath
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Custom Servo Extensions


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I want to make up a number of extensions to suit the Ziroli Twin Beech Im building.
Im going to buy 20ga.servo wire in bulk from Servo City and make up my own.
Regarding plugs I have many times bought good quality extensions cut them in half and spliced in the needed length of wire with good soldering and heat shrink practice.
Opinions please as to whether making up new plugs with pins etc is a better way to go for some reason since I have no experience with this route.Any pitfalls inherent in making up your own plugs?
Can you tell the electronic end of this RC game is my weak point?
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:35 AM   #2
Gary Maker
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Keven, when you were in Brantford at Dan's, no doubt you saw a couple of blimps inflated in his shop. On the larger ones, 30 - 50 foot, the tail fins are servo controlled the same way as rudders and elevators on a model plane.

Extentions/giant "y,s" have to be made that are at times over 15' long.
All that is done to make them up is to cut a standard 12" extention in half and solder to each end of a long length of servo wire ending up with a properly functioning control system. I can personally see NO need to make up special plugs etc.

The only other thing I can add is that Dan has opted to use line chokes/regulators not because there has been any real problem but to help assure no weak signal or interfearance because of the extremely long servo leads to these control surfaces and these larger airships use twin G26 to G45 gas engines.

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:50 AM   #3
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I do mine the same way. Cut an extension, and splice a piece in.
I don't like to mess around with those tiny connectors.
I feel safer with a factory-made connector.

Ron
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Old 01-20-2004, 08:36 AM   #4
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One thing my favorite electronics GURU told me is that on long leads separate the 3 wires then twist them and this will help prevent any possible interference. HTH
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Old 01-20-2004, 09:22 AM   #5
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If you are not concerned about current handling (and associated voltage drops) then it is okay to just cut a premade extension and splice in whatever length wire you need. If current handling is an issue then you may be better off making complete new extensions. Picture a plumbing system with a small diameter pipe going to a larger diameter pipe and then back to the original size pipe. The smaller diameter pipe will limit (restrict) water flow in the system. Same thing for electrons...
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Old 01-20-2004, 09:31 AM   #6
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Most hobby shops will also sell heavy duty servo leads to match the heavier servo wireing!
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Old 01-20-2004, 05:25 PM   #7
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Kevin,
I learned something from Tailspin a while ago on leads. He used 3 wire microphone cable, It has a red and clear with a copper wrap over the 2 core cables. It is all multistrand with a nylon type cover. If you make the red + and the clear sig.(white) and the outer cable grd. you have a lot less chance of any interferance. I also put my own plugs on them and cut to length. You can do it either way but I prefer to not have so many connections or solder joints. Somebody mentioned at one time using cat5 cable but I prefer this way. cat5 is single strand x 8 and more likely to have a fracture from vibration.
Just another way of doing things.
John
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Old 01-27-2004, 09:44 AM   #8
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Remember, that for every connector there is a voltage drop. More connectors, more votage drop = less power to the servo.
I cut my servo wires and extend them. One connector from receiver to servo = less to fail.
My $0.02
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Old 01-27-2004, 08:13 PM   #9
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I am afraid that I don't share everyones confidence in solder joints in a vibration prone environment - especially 6 for every servo lead. I've done it, but I don't like it.
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Old 01-27-2004, 08:54 PM   #10
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Servo extensions

Hi Guys:

I make my own servo extensions. I got the connectors, wire and pins from Dymond Model Sports, the crimping tool from Radio Shack and make the extensions just like the manufacturer. I can't tell the difference between the manufactered one and mine. See the link here.

http://www.ncws.com/rcrock/connector.htm

It works.
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