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Old 06-22-2004, 08:10 AM   #11
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scratch building

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thanks for all the help
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Old 06-22-2004, 08:13 AM   #12
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Great idea

In the past I have used carbon paper and traced the parts out. Did not work out all the time.

I then cut with my scroll saw.
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Old 06-22-2004, 08:23 AM   #13
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Just be aware that most photocopiers will distort the plan. Several of us use a local copier company, mostly because they understand our needs and are able to manually compensate for the distortion on their best copier.

Unfortunately, the iron-on technique doesn't always work (not sure why, maybe a different copier chemistry). I generally make a copy of my plans, glue them to the wood with 3M spray adhesive, bandsaw them and peel/sand the paper off.
MAAC# 12719
Si fractum non sit, noli id reficere - (If it ain't broke, don't fix it).
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Old 06-22-2004, 04:03 PM   #14
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What Jim Mc said!
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Old 06-23-2004, 07:24 AM   #15
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Jim is right, some copies do enlarge the image a bit. That's one reason NOT to buy plans from those plans pirates on eBay.
I use a printing service that does technical stuff for local industry so I havenít had this issue in years.
I've never had a photocopy not transfer as long as it's black and white. These are made with carbon toner that is heat applied. If your iron have a sock on it (to prvent scratching) it takes longer for the heat to penatrate. Personally I find the 3M 77 spray messy.
I suggest you try both ways and see what you like.
That's one of the good things about this hobby. There are usually several good ways to do things and the ingenuity of modeler is boundless.
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Old 07-13-2004, 03:07 AM   #16
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I like to have plans scanned and put on a CD at the local copy shop. That way I keep the original and I can print parts as often as I need them. I then scale the parts using my Tile Print program and print them on my inkjet. I glue the paper templates to the balsa with a glue stick, rough cut them with my scroll saw and clean the parts up on my disk sander. The paper will come off clean if you don't apply too much glue and/or let it set.
1/2A all the way!
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Old 07-13-2004, 10:30 AM   #17
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Being the old fashioned way I like to use a pattern wheel. I think it is for clothing patterns. (little wheel with points) Run it on your plans over the wood and it leaves little dents in the wood. Leaves little holes in the paper but keeps them clean. Then join the dots on the wood. Be selective on your wood. Spars should be straight grained and stiff.
John Davidson
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Old 07-30-2004, 12:27 AM   #18
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Hi Brent

Pretty much everyone is right on target

Instead of using a spray glue, I take the part I want to make from the blueprint, make a small copy of it and simply print it out with my printer on plain white paper. I cut it out and apply a "gluestick" adhesive from the dollar stores or STAPLES, whatever suites you best, it's almost got the same adhesiveness as a "POST-IT" note.

Also, like most everyone else is saying --- copy machines tend to not make a true copy in size.

I simply use PHOTOSHOP. It is GREAT for that stuff. PS might be a little pricey so go ahead and use ADOBE PHOTOSHOP ELEMENTS. MUCH cheaper.

If this does not help you, let me know, I may have a ROYALY FREE copy of it for eith PC or MAC

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Old 07-30-2004, 12:39 AM   #19
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If you want something cheap that is designed specifically for printing plans, try Tile Print.
1/2A all the way!
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