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Old 07-27-2016, 06:48 PM   #21
east6008
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Re: Sopwith STLBP


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The foam rims were just an experiment, I intend tremclad oil base paint.
The wheels I intend using were turned from balsa, the model will be hand launched most of its life, except when the tourists are gone, I use a back
road for a runway.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:10 PM   #22
ishmatt
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

Krylon might be better if the oil base eats the foam.. just a thought
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Old 07-31-2016, 03:52 PM   #23
east6008
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

Needed bushings for homemade wheels. Used rivets from my wife's leather craft.
Done this before, just oil once in a while.
Ashamed to show both wheels, the other turned out a little bigger.
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Old 07-31-2016, 04:48 PM   #24
ishmatt
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

looking so nice, and interested which paint you used - its smooth, no pitting from solvents,
- have you used graphite instead of oil = not sticking and build-up (we live rural and fly off dirt and gravel)
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:42 PM   #25
east6008
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

I used a permanent black marker for the tire you see colored, then 6 coats of
clear dope. I found this works fine but needs a retread once in a while with
black tremclad.
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:50 PM   #26
east6008
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

This airplane has a rotary engine sticking down from from the cowling,
and I was wondering about gluing balsa cylinders to the outside rim
of the outrunner motor. They would be light, and I know I could use
Goop glue. I know there would be a power loss, but I'm prepared for that,
already thinking of carving my own prop to scale length for an Eflite E370
Ever heard of anyone simulating a rotary with an outrunner?
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:19 AM   #27
OLD PRAIRIE RED NECK
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

As usual Wendell, you have come up with some great ideas and techniques for the budget minded scratch builder! A breath of fresh air in the present spend and fly culture, proving once again that satisfaction and self fulfillment in this hobby don't need to be connected to one's ability to generate checks.

The only issue I can see with attaching fake cylinders to an outrunner is perhaps cooling issues. I wonder if you could glue the cylinders to a strip of pop can a bit larger than the motor, then use tooth picks between the pop can and the outside of the motor to allow air flow to cool the motor.
It would all have to be reasonably in balance I suppose and there is the danger that it would all fly off at high rpms!
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:50 AM   #28
east6008
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

A shocker when I joined the fuselage sides--ended up as wobbly as a rotten
banana, dont know whether the spruce warped after I built the
fuselage sides, or because the RC Modelers Craft Glue dries flexible.
I almost threw the whole works out
Had to anchor it all down and glue in a bunch of diagonals.
Most of the WW I airplane fuselages had internal wire bracing.
I dont recall a problem with the Pup I built from the same plans using balsa
Good news--the cowl fits the front bulkhead perfectly.

I'm starting to worry about weight, this will be calm weather/tall grass model
where crashing is not an option
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:34 AM   #29
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

Quote:
Originally Posted by east6008 View Post
A shocker when I joined the fuselage sides--ended up as wobbly as a rotten
banana, dont know whether the spruce warped after I built the
fuselage sides, or because the RC Modelers Craft Glue dries flexible.
I almost threw the whole works out
Had to anchor it all down and glue in a bunch of diagonals.
Most of the WW I airplane fuselages had internal wire bracing.
I dont recall a problem with the Pup I built from the same plans using balsa
Good news--the cowl fits the front bulkhead perfectly.

I'm starting to worry about weight, this will be calm weather/tall grass model
where crashing is not an option
The balsa diagonal bracing on the fuselage is a good solution..... I recall reading an RCMagazine plan/article where a builder used aramid thread to simulate wiring bracing on a WWI model.

On the rotary engine I'd be not as ambitious and settle for a dummy rotary fixed to the inside of the front cowl (and not rotating).... if going with the rotary engine glued to the electric motor I would first run it on test bed to check if the engine temperature didn't overheat and the dummy cylinder heads didn't fly off.

Eflite 370 motor ... the specs on this engine say it is a 28mm diameter size, 110 watts, 9amp, 10/4 max prop with all up model weight of 14oz. How big is your model?

very interesting project
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:22 PM   #30
east6008
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Re: Sopwith STLBP

The model is 40" span,an old Aeromodeler plan. I intend carving my own prop from paint stir sticks laminated.

Got the engineering done with the landing gear.
Made a pattern first with 1/16 balsa, I had to put backward from the Pup plan, because photos show the SLTBP obviously has the longer legs in the front .
It was handy to glue coat hanger wire to the fire-wall, then crimp the ends
to the spreader board (carved from hardwood paint stir stick) Crimped the
axle to the spreader board also, intending to use 1/8" rubber wrapped around
the axle like the old timers used bungee shock cord. I used slit aluminum tube
for the crimping. The front strut will be covered with balsa, and the rear one won't even be glued to the spreader board.
I use coat hanger wire for landing gear all the time- a hard landing just bends it a bit.
I think the tough engineering is done now for this model, the rest is relaxing stuff
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