UHS Noorduyn Norseman build - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:01 PM   #1
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UHS Noorduyn Norseman build


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I said I wasn't going to start building until this winter but I can't stay away from it. This one and the 1/6 scale beaver. A few pictures to start but I won't be giving a daily update. Possibly every couple of weeks when there's something to show. Bear with me as this one is a two hour head scratcher for 20 minutes of building. I'm hoping that Max and Gary and others chime in as I go.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:30 PM   #2
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

Will do. Don't forget to keep everything aft of the CofG as light as possible. IMO, lightening holes in the 1/4" bulkheads would not hurt.
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:03 AM   #3
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

Ah!!! I love this model. Will be watching this thread and provide feedback from my UH Norseman experience
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Old 08-04-2016, 04:53 PM   #4
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

i love mine with a Zenoah G20 for power!
Broke a wing strut (built as per the plans) last year, its still on the bench awaiting fixing.
Its a nice flying model, needs rudder for nice turns, and adding flaps really slows her down for nice 3 point landings
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Old 08-04-2016, 05:29 PM   #5
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

Not sure if I'll do the flaps, I'll have to decide when I build the wing. I already know I'll be building in servo pockets. In the bad old days bellcranks were a PITA.
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:27 AM   #6
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

If you put flaps on it your chance of crashing it goes up about five hundred percent. They are a lot of trouble to build in and the aerodynamic effect of flaps can cause a crash. You do not need them on the lightly loaded wing of a Norsman. First of all deploying the flaps moves the centre of pressure back, nose down. They put a down airflow on top of the stab, nose up. They increase the drag about 300%. All these factors change with airspeed. If you are not going to enter it in a scale contest forget them.

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Old 08-05-2016, 12:38 PM   #7
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

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Originally Posted by Kip0416 View Post
If you put flaps on it your chance of crashing it goes up about five hundred percent. They are a lot of trouble to build in and the aerodynamic effect of flaps can cause a crash. You do not need them on the lightly loaded wing of a Norsman. First of all deploying the flaps moves the centre of pressure back, nose down. They put a down airflow on top of the stab, nose up. They increase the drag about 300%. All these factors change with airspeed. If you are not going to enter it in a scale contest forget them.

Kip
What are you talking about? 500%?. On some models, flaps are essential. It changes a fast hot landing into a slower feather landing. BTW I have flaps on many of my models, including the UH Norseman and to date I have 0 crashes caused by flaps.

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Not sure if I'll do the flaps, I'll have to decide when I build the wing. I already know I'll be building in servo pockets. In the bad old days bellcranks were a PITA.
Definitely put the flaps in. Not putting them in would be a mistake. Mine are installed as you are suggesting; flaps are in pockets in the wings. Nice straight line from the servo to the flap horn.

Though mine converts from floats to wheels easily, I prefer to keep mine as a dedicated float plane. I always take off with about 20deg flaps and also use 20 for most landings. I'll use more on very calm days when I I need to dive in towards the water on landing. With no headwind to slow me down, more flaps are needed for higher drag. (we have a large stand of trees on the edge of the float field- think full-scale short-field-landing and that is why I would use more than 20deg for landings)

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Old 08-05-2016, 01:15 PM   #8
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

Flaps do not cause a crash. Improper flying in any regime is the reason.

Depending on the design the graph of the amounts may vary, but virtually all start out producing more lift with minimal drag. As they continue to deploy the lift and drag meet and with further deflection the lift decreases while drag increases dramatically.

The resultant pitch change, (if any) can be countered by mixing in elevator deflection, but proper power management is key to any maneuvers. As with normal approaches, you want to maintain pitch angle and manage the approach path with power. You will find more power is required as flap angles increase, but you can achieve lower speeds for that same approach angle.

The main differences come from the type of flap designs available. The simplest are where the surface is hinged directly to either the top or bottom of the rear spar with no aerodynamic separation.

Split flaps such as with the Texan/Harvard seem to induce the least pitch change while Fowler or Split can show quite evident pitch effects, likely due to their also traveling aft and down, altering both the chord and Center of Lift.

One further bit of advice is if you tend to raise the nose a lot the ailerons can become less effective or even reverse. As you approach critical Angle of Attack the best technique is to lessen aileron inputs and use rudder for roll control.
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:06 AM   #9
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

I'm ready to start bending landing gear wire and found that my du-bro wire bender isn't big enough to handle 4mm diameter steel rod. Is a bench vise, propane torch and big hammer the only alternative? In the past I found that this method doesn't give what you would call an accurate and neat bend.
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Old 08-07-2016, 02:41 PM   #10
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

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Originally Posted by kitbuilder View Post
I'm ready to start bending landing gear wire and found that my du-bro wire bender isn't big enough to handle 4mm diameter steel rod. Is a bench vise, propane torch and big hammer the only alternative? In the past I found that this method doesn't give what you would call an accurate and neat bend.
I have a wire-bender. I made it myself using a block of steel, dowel rod and a couple of drilled/tapped holes to hold a bolt.

I dont have a picture handy but a quick search on the net shows very similar benders. These photo's are pretty much self explanatory:


There's even one made of wood;



Not sure which wires you are bending for the LG- on mine I have an aluminum main gear. Did yours come with an aluminum gear or do you have to bend your own?
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