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Old 08-07-2016, 04:00 PM   #11
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build


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Thanks Max it looks like I'll have to make up a rod bender like what your pictures show and get a new propane cylinder. I can see the heat marks on one of the rods in the pictures. I've included some pictures of the build to date including the steel rods and instructions for the bends. I want to keep the landing gear fairings as they help to make the Norseman look quite distinctive. I have a few extra aluminum landing gears in my parts bin and if I can adapt one and still keep the fairings that's the route I'll take.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:47 PM   #12
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

DO NOT HEAT THE PIANO WIRE. You will take the temper out of the wire. Take a file for sharpening a chain saw and file a curved groove in your vice. Clamp the wire at the groove. Grab the free end with a gloved hand and pull, then pound the wire just above the vice with a soft face hammer. Make the groove towards one end of the vice so the piano wire can hang down.

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Old 08-07-2016, 08:39 PM   #13
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

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Originally Posted by Kip0416 View Post
DO NOT HEAT THE PIANO WIRE. You will take the temper out of the wire. Take a file for sharpening a chain saw and file a curved groove in your vice. Clamp the wire at the groove. Grab the free end with a gloved hand and pull, then pound the wire just above the vice with a soft face hammer. Make the groove towards one end of the vice so the piano wire can hang down.

Kip
Thanks for the input Kip but this is not piano wire. It's a 4mm diameter steel rod and not tempered. It has to be able to flex to absorb shocks when the plane is landing so if I heat it to make sharper/neater bends I won't hurt anything. My vise already has indentations for holding different wire sizes.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:10 PM   #14
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

These wires are usually tempered so any heat will change their characteristics. Unless you know the technique for reintroducing the temper do not heat them to bend.

If you do bend the key is to keep some radius to prevent introducing a stress point that will break immediately or some time in the future. The tool shown earlier is a good method, but altering the radius to accommodate wire of different diameter would make it even better.

If memory serves I cleaned the areas to be joined, wrapped the different pieces together with fine steel wire, (copper is usually too soft for long term strength) and used a good quality solder to bond it all together. Did the same with the Seamaster landing gear and other wire assemblies like cabanes and struts and if the wrap is tight none have come apart. In some cases it may need some flux to etch the surface and a good amount of heat to get the solder to flow, the best method to heat the opposite side of the joint till the solder softens on the far side. Solder always flows toward heat so applying it to the heated end will prevent good penetration.

I acquired some low temp silver solder but have not tried it yet. The standard we used at work required far too much heat to flow, (base wire would need to be red hot).
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Old 08-20-2016, 05:39 PM   #15
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Re:Noorduyn Norseman build - 2nd update

A little more progress to report. The landing gear was a PITA but got thru it with only a few burns and cuts. The right solder made all the difference in the world.
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Old 09-10-2016, 03:59 PM   #16
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build - 3rd update

A little more done. Some sheeting, upper and lower hatch building with changes to the plan method of latches. Going to be a lot of sanding and filling on this one - the balsa is very brittle. Tackling the landing gear fairings next.
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:08 PM   #17
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

What's the purpose of the two allan head bolts in the bottom fuse? Float attach?

Been so long cannot remember if there is firewall offset on this one.

Included some pics of mine complete. If memory serves I used light ply for the gear fairing skins.
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:56 PM   #18
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

Nice Norseman Gary. The plans called for a bottom hatch for easy access to a 30cc gasser but the only time I'm going to use it is when I install the electric motor and ESC. I deviated from the plans with the attachment method as they depended on the cowling to help keep the hatch in place and I wanted something more secure, so two bolts that were a bh to get the right angle on and I may change again. The top hatch called for a bolt but as I wanted fast access for battery changes I inverted the bolt and epoxied it through a small 1/4" piece of plywood and put a wing nut on it. Simple and fast.
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Old 09-10-2016, 06:31 PM   #19
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

I've bought spring release latches and made my own, as well. They're actually pretty easy to build any size you want with piano wire, springs available from pens or the Princess Auto assortment, axle collars and small allen bolts, (that fit the axle collars). The one in the pic is of a pair that hold the canopy on Rare Bear.

NOTE: The trio of C/F rods on the front are angled so they fit down into the front bulkhead and allow the canopy to rise before pulling aft.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:24 PM   #20
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Re: UHS Noorduyn Norseman build

Subscribed! Love watching a Norseman build . You mention 30cc engine? I have a Zenoah 20cc on mine, way more power than it needs. Electric would be nice, but the 'thunder chicken' needs lotsa noise to get off the ground!! Have fun with your build!! Cant wait to see I finished!
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