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Old 09-03-2016, 08:32 AM   #1
howie2
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40 seamaster


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can anyone tell me what the center of gravity is for a 40 seamaster? i believe its the ace model? thanks.
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Old 09-03-2016, 05:45 PM   #2
Cougar429
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Re: 40 seamaster

I have the original kit built in the 80's and think the ARF is the same. Just flew it yesterday, the first time this season.

Start with it at the thickest part of the wing, basically just ahead of the spar. This places it just ahead of the step in the fuse, as well.

If you PM me your Email I can send you the plans and ARF build manual in .pdf format. Although it is one of the best amphibs I ever flew, I can also discuss two particular problems with it, (easy fixes).
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:56 PM   #3
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Re: 40 seamaster

Hey Gary,

Would love to have a copy of those pdf's as well if you're ok. I'll p.m. you my email.

I've got an old fibreglass fuse one that I recovered the wing and balsa surfaces - needs a fuse paint job but I'm just going to take it out and flog it this weekend at the Shuswap float fly and then repaint over the winter.

Cheers,

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Old 09-06-2016, 07:09 AM   #4
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Re: 40 seamaster

Files on the way.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:36 AM   #5
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Re: 40 seamaster

I've sent a couple of copies out and figured I would cover the problems I encountered with mine.

On the day of the maiden I had a vicious snap into the water in a turn. It did some damage to the silk and dope covering that I was unable to fix so it was set aside in favor of the Northstar. That continued for a while till I left for aviation college so it sat in storage for a while. Resurrected it with the new scheme and have been flying it ever since.

From how it handled I first thought it was a tip stall problem, but some discussions online led me to the back end. Apparently the one issue with this design was the horizontal tail, the lack of stiffness allowing the ends to flex so much it would go out of control if under enough load. I guess a honking turn qualifies.

Once recovered I added a C/F rod to the front and back each side, locking it to the lower fuse. You can see the first to the LE in the pic taken during this process. This effectively prevented any twist or flex and it has been solid ever since with no bad habits.

However there are a couple of tendencies I've noticed over the years, one I may have built in at time of assembly. The first shows on landing and is a very noticeable continued sink rate when first flared. It has to be accounted for to avoid plonking and can be part of the process, just one I have never encountered on any other craft.

The second may be a two-part problem in that I shortened the pylon and even though maintained the thrust line added more power than originally recommended, (Fox 50). Was a strong choice, (I still have that engine in storage) but other problems after getting it airborne again made the change to an OS 55AX. That issue continued after the engine change and was eventually traced to a too flexible clunk line, (the engine would sag above half throttle; apparently vent pressure was enough to collapse the silicone).

The extra speed now shows a serious pitch change with power. Altering the thrust line did not have much effect and I have raised the back end of the wing. This winter may finally get at changing the tail incidence so the wing can seat back where it should.

So, as mentioned earlier this has one of the best hull designs for water ops, except as with all flat bottoms it can skip if allowed. If I ever built another or got my hands on the ARF would look at modding for a V-bottom and possibly C/F reinforcing the horizontal stab to eliminate the need for the external bracing, but that's just due to my habit of not leaving things alone.

Regardless, take note of that problem with the tail or it will come out and bite.
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