|04-10-2005, 08:04 PM||#1|
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Georgetown Ont
Feedback: 1 / 100%
Total Props: 1
CHEAP on board glow
Remove this ad - become a site supporter!
I was doing some surfing (on board glow systems, battery requirements for same, etc) and came across this posting. I give full credit to the author and the site. I think this is an excellent idea.
Simple Onboard Glow Driver
By Mike Stokes - March 9, 1998
A very simple and reliable on board glow driver system is in use in my area. Mike Stokes of Indy RC told me and some fellow flyers what he used for his big Saito 4 strokes at the 1997 Winter Festival of Giants. Since then we've all started using this simple system and except for running out of fuel flame outs are a thing of the past.
It's disgustingly simple. Go to radio shack and get a single C cell battery holder and a simple toggle or push button switch. Connect this on board glow system to your engine and glow plug in your favorite fashion. I found some very small E-clips for a penny each at the hardware store and soldered the positive side wire from the battery to it. It clips to the top of the glow plug with no problems. Others less cheap than me use the McDaniels remote glow connector.
When I'm ready to fly I turn on the radio, receiver and range check. Then choke the engine, flip the switch for the glow battery and start the engine. I leave power to the glow plug for the entire flight. We'e get the smoothest idle and transitions with glow engines I've ever seen. No one has yet burnt out a glow plug from this setup and an alkaline C cell will last for 6 to 10 flights depending on how long your up. Just remember to shut it off when you shut off our receiver. No ni starter to worry about and C cells are cheap. C size nicads also work but less flight time. Typically a C cell will work for an entire weekend.
There are fancy on board glow systems that come on when you reduce your throttle but they require not only the battery but the electronic gizmo or micro switch. I've found that simple is better. Try It the entire system for my plane cost less than $3.00.
|04-11-2005, 12:19 PM||#2|
RCC Supreme Contributor
I am: John Davidson
Join Date: Feb 2003
Radio of choice:
# of RCs: ?
Feedback: 0 / 0%
Total Props: 0
Another easy part also is to use a slide switch on the throttle with an override so at half throttle it turns on. Your battery will last a lot longer and it is at idle where you really need the power. I made a lead for Ken from a burnt out plug and a small wheel coller that you insulate with shrink tube. You tighten the allen screw on the centre post. If you wire it in parallel you have the best of both worlds.
Anything that works is all right with me.
Keep the shiny side up and the wheels down
|04-11-2005, 12:56 PM||#3|
I am: Dave .
Join Date: Oct 2002
Radio of choice:
Feedback: 4 / 100%
Total Props: 5
To simplify John's idea one step further(or to just add to it). What I do is add a small micro roller switch(radio shack). I hold it on an angle to which when the throttle is throttled back to the desired turn on/off point then c/a it to the side of the fuse. And your done. I have used this a couple of times and works well. On a .20 size cub with an inverted .20 4stroke I needed some nose weight and 3500mah of batteryt took care of my tail heavyness. Charge it once or twice a summer and good to go. Great idle on sloww and low approaches with a great sound as well.
|Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)|