Priming and painting Fiberglass - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 05-15-2005, 09:17 PM   #1
Going Balistic
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Priming and painting Fiberglass

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Wondering what people are using to prime fiberglass?

Anyone using automotive primer and paint?

The kit is gas not glow.

Anyone using automotive primer and hobby paint?


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Old 05-21-2005, 01:54 AM   #2
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I goto Canadian Tire and get their grey filler/primer. Has worked very well for me, even spray it into a mold before layup produces a nice primed surface straight out of the mold.
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:29 AM   #3
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check out this link
MAAC Member
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Giants, Heli's, Biplanes, Gremlin's
I'll fly anything at least ONCE!!!
B-25 Mitchell (101")
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Old 05-21-2005, 06:53 AM   #4
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Priming and painting Fiberglass

I went and read the link that Jessy posted .I would not recommend everything that the person on that link suggested.Fist 150 sandpaper is way to coarse for the spray bomb primer to fill in the scratches.Some guys on here use 400 grit paper to sand balsa which they are going to cover with covering.Probably the best thing to sand the fibreglass parts with would be what is known in auto refinishing field as a red scotch pad grey one being finer still.You can buy these at auto parts store but in a pinch they make smaller ones for the Bug electric sander.He was absolutely right about the washing but it is more to stop what is known as fish eyes in the finish .There is a product called Fine Line (plastic tape)for masking all your lines and designs it comes as small as 1/8.The one other thing I really disagree with is painting over unsanded primer.The primer in these spray bombs is very thin so therefor has poor filling quality's so numerous coats are required and yes you should sand the part with 320 or finer or better still use the grey scotch pad I mentioned earlier If you would like any further answers about painting send me a PM.I have over 40 years in auto collision repair and about 20 years painting experience at GM and Ford dealerships.My personal preference for painting at home as no I no longer have a compressor or small paint guns is water base acrylic enamel spray bombs from your local home hardware. It is much easier on the lungs and not so bad to smell around the house
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Old 05-22-2005, 06:47 PM   #5
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Thanks for the posts and links guys.

been of email for a few days. Will dig into them and post any other questions.

Thanks again,

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Old 05-25-2005, 10:35 AM   #6
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Just to add on this as I have posted on the other topic. I agree 320 is to coarse but if the part is really rough that is a good start. I never usually go past 400 wet but using a spray bomb you may want to go to 600 to fill the scratchs. I do several coats with wet sanding in between using 400 wet. I also use a rubber faced sanding block to start. This will tell you very quick the highs and lows you missed. After you do it twice you can then switch to the scotch brite. I also take off as much primer as possible till the last coat and then it is light and then use the pad to scuff.
I am not sure what the guys are using now but I used to use lacquer and also urathane automotive. Not advisable unless you have a rebreather with fresh air especially the carcaginic paints.(spelling)
Remember painting is the elbow grease used to get the good finish.
John Davidson
Keep the shiny side up and the wheels down
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Old 05-26-2005, 05:51 PM   #7
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Fiberglass fill and prime

Couple of products I like when working with fibreglass. SuperFil is a two part epoxy fairing putty. Overnight to cure, but sands really good, and adhers well to just about anything. Cures quite hard, though it shouldn;t be considered structural, but sands easily in the first few days. You have to be careful if it is ajoining balsa as it is so much harder and it's easy to grind down the balsa excessively. One of the model magazines showed a technique a few years ago that I like, where you put a line of masking tape down (I double it up), fair this putty over that line, then sand down to the tape. Really works well for those scale touches. Pull that tape and you have a nice hard overlap panel line. Easy to trap bubbles in this stuff when mixing, which can be filled with regular balsa filler or more Superfil or even spackle. The other is a primer especially for fiberglass and metal, called FC-900 feather coat. It's white, with a lot of solids, and sands beautifully. Wonderful stuff. It's best sprayed, and is MEK solvent-based (so don't use it in the furnace room). These are both from Poly Fiber, a certified paint and fabric company for fabric-covered full-size aircraft. They can be bought at full size aircraft supply places (Like Goulet here in Edmonton). For a good description, see the Poly-Tone section of the online store of the Stits Lite folks in the US for a good description. They are at The bad news is that they don't ship anything flammable into Canada, and that primer is very flammable. So...unless you are just getting the putty, you should buy in Canada from a regular aircraft supply. The Stits lite people, by the way, have the retarders and thinners already mixed for spraying. Poly Fiber paints from the aircraft supply guys need the retarders added to spray properly. Not sure if this applies to FC-900. Another overlooked resource is the West System epoxy products. Used a lot in boatbuilding. They have a good line of fillers to add to epoxy. I have all four types in my workroom and use these additives all the time. They can be used to create sandable filler at one end of the scale, to adding body for structuaral use of epoxy fillinggaps or gusseting etc. Good stuff, just mix into epoxy. For plain old filling the SuperFil is best I think. The West epoxy itself is very high quality, but hard to measure for little stuff, as it is not mixed 1 to 1. West has special pumps for the cans that dispense the right amounts. I used this a lot around a boatyard, but the dispensers give out too much per stroke to be useful in model building. If you can stand the unequal mixing amounts, West is a lot cheaper than the hobby store bottles of epoxy. But then who needs a gallon of epoxy? They have different speed hardeners, but none of them are five-minute. In the boatyard you want hours, not minutes....Hope thjis helps
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