What in the world would cause paint to do this? - Page 2 - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 06-11-2005, 10:10 PM   #11
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Old 06-12-2005, 10:48 AM   #12
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flash or flash off means let it dry a little between coats
(i painted for 16 years and still going and going and going.....lol
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Old 06-12-2005, 09:01 PM   #13
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loss of gloss or "hazing

humidity is the most likely cause, possibly tecnique.

If you applied heavy wet coats or had an inadequate flash time between coats

Insufficient drying or curing of the undercoats before adding another topcoat.

Unfortunately with a spray bomb u don't have a choice of reducer. they go with one for "average" temps. If the "average temp" reducer evaporates too fast for the temp. conditions the paint will fog. This is likely the cause because it's been so hot and humid lately.

If you were to use "pro" auto paints, you would actually pick the reducer for the temp. conditions that you are painting in.

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Old 06-12-2005, 09:24 PM   #14
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When I spray from cans, I usually jig the cowl/wheel pant or whatever I am painting, with an internal balsa frame, and ca on a balsa handle. I hold the piece in my left hand and apply paint using the spray bomb with my right hand. I apply thin coats to build up and continually turn the piece on all axis, so as to prevent runs and also have the painted piece dry evenly. When the colour is dry, usually a couple minutes, I apply a wet coat evenly on the entire piece.

At this point, if you rotate the painted piece on all axis, using your hand and the handle, you can change hands so you don't get tired, you will get equal evaporation of thinners and no runs. You will usually get no orange peel and a very professional looking job.

I bought a box of latex gloves (about 100), from my dentist a few years ago for $10. They go on tight, make it easy to grip everything, they are lightly powdered on the inside, and you don't have to wory about overspray or using your equipment, cause you don't even know you have them on. They are so thin you can pick up pins.

Throw them away when you're done. Back to the painted peice. After about 3-4 minutes, it's dry enough that you don't have to worry about runs or flat spots. Clamp your handle in a vise and leave it till the next day. Break out the balsa supports when it's dry. Works every time.
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Old 06-12-2005, 09:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Lord Kimbo
Where are good ones? I get mine at Canadian Tire. They seem cheap, but haven't seen different.

I have used the ones from CDN Tire as well. I think they were the cheap ones with to much wax residue on them.

Try a professional paint supply store.
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Old 06-13-2005, 10:17 AM   #16
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lustre coat

I just refinished my cowl on my 25 cub. ( I didn't like the bruch marks)
After sanding and some CA repair to a crack, I washed the part in dish soap and water. After letting it dry I used gloves to move it outside and sprayed it in the shade ( very important ). After the paint had flashed from the final coat I moved it inside to the A/C. Even with all the humidity the part came out with a brilliant yellow gloss finish. No complaints at all.

The most important part of painting is the prep work, ask any pro.

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Old 06-13-2005, 12:28 PM   #17
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Thanks JKovats, the process you described is what I do as well. That is why I started the thread, because I have never had a problem with paint doing this.

The general consensus seems to be moisture in the air. I thought the conditions were good (late in evening, approx 22 degrees, in shade, seemed like little to no humidity). But I could have been mistaken about the moisture in the air. Maybe there was lots and I didn't realize it.

I am going to have another try at it. Sand it with 320, wash it clean, use my compressor and blow it to remove dust, etc. And do the painting when the humidity has broken. If I still have trouble with this cowl and paint, I will leave it and just add a nother colour pattern over the base yellow I have and live with it.

Thanks people.
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