What does everyone use for covering? - Page 3 - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 10-19-2005, 12:03 AM   #21
Claude Paradis
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I am: Claude P.
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Futaba 7C and 9C
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I have used:

21st century film. It was OK to work with, but didn't pull very tight. Easy to apply. However, I found it to be kind of "rubbery". It covers and looks nice but it doesn't have a lot of strength to it - the finished model it flexes alot. I restrict its use to very small models and only until I get the stock used up and am rid of it for good.

Ultracote. Absolutely love it. Very easy covering to work with. Goes around corners and compound curves well. Does not bubble when layered. Pulls tight and is pretty strong. However, on end seams the glue can be damaged (cooked?) and not stick down if you use too much heat for your sealing pass. Not much cursing in the workshop when I am using Ultracote. The finished project is strong yet the covering has "some" flex and durability. It is no where near as brittle as monokote.

Monokote. A very strong covering yielding stunning and glistening finishs. A real bear to work with if you are covering anything that has more than one turn in it. Lots of cursing in the workshop when working with MK. Pulls really tight and strong. However, it is brittle - shatters rips and tears to no end if punctured. Use as much heat as you want - seams rarely(never) lift. I haven't had much success layering monokote for graphics. It bubbles easily and alot. But I have learned that this is probably just from using too much heat when trying to seal it down. Irregardles, I will not be buying any more MK. I will only use it until I am rid of the stock I have.

Econokote = monokote, but thinner film sheet. Lighter weight. All same comments as above.

Guys and Gals, even though it doesn't get all the advertising dollars hype and push as MK --> ULTRACOTE is the best film covering available. If you haven't tried it, you need to let go of your ways - open up to new experiences, and go pick up a roll of Ultracote. It is guranteed to be a pleasant experience. You need to resist the MK advertising hype. Note: I am talking about films here, not attempting to compare at all to fabrics or glassing.
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Old 10-19-2005, 12:11 AM   #22
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Thanks Claude for the comparison. I'll be trying UC soon.
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:26 AM   #23
Shallow LakeShore
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1'st trainer

My first trainer /crasher was an ugly stick, foam wing covered in pantyhose and thinned white glue. It was tough, cheap and ugly but a coat of paint and some distance made it look better.
Shallow lakeshore
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:06 AM   #24
Kevin McGrath
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Tried just about everything one time or another and currently use:

Ultracote for a plastic iron on..........hate Monocote.

Sig fabric and sprayed latex for open structures

Light glass/epoxy with sprayed latex for solid structures.

Above choices arrived at using cost,ease of use,realistic finish ,durability,color choice availability as criteria........

The scale model I flew at the Nats had a fabric /dope finish which was very realistic in this particular case but oh.......the cost of dope and thinners when you are matching a full scale paint scheme on a 1/3 scale model
IMAA 27023
IMAC 3710
The Planet is doing what it has always done.......floods,volcanic eruptions storms,
earthquakes.........but today there are more people in the way.
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Old 10-19-2005, 12:17 PM   #25
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Interesting point about disposable airplanes, I never thought of it that way...

A good friend built a Berkeley Sea Cat (freeflight) in the early 50s, and did the traditional silk & dope finish. He flew it for many years, off salt water and fresh, nearly lost it a few times (when the timer stuck), dunked it many times, and by the 80s it was still good as new. Diesel fuel had no effect on it. As far as I know, it is still just fine, unless someone butchered it to install a radio...
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