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General RC Boat Discussion Discuss RC Boats, submarines & hovercrafts in electric or nitro.

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Old 01-09-2006, 10:44 AM   #11
NS boater
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Re: Model Plane engines and Boats

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Thanks for the comments guys, I need all the help I can get since I am designing and solving problems as I go.

Originally Posted by Pangaea
I've seen Model Plane engines in boats, but they don't last too long. It's good that you will use a "water Jacket" to cool the engine, but this is not the best solution as engines need to run at a certain temperature. Most importantly, the fins on a model plane engine is best suited to keep it at that certain right temperature. If you wanted a cheap engine, then you should have used an LA engine instead. They seem to perform better in boats. I've also seen "Model Buggy engines" in lobster boats (outriggers), runs good, but burns up after awhile.
I bought an LA series engine ( ) It was the cheapest thing I could get my wife's approval for...I mean I liked it the best...yeah yeah thats it LOL. Actually, it was the cheapest, and the closest displacement to the original .35 McCoy redhead the boat started with. I looked at the buggy engines briefly but didn't seem to find any big enough to to push the big hull. They all seemed to be around .15 displacement. If I end up using this boat enough to justify a proper marine engine I will certainly save my pennies get one for it later....probably much later like after this one is cooked.

Originally Posted by Pangaea
Ok, now for the big question.....if you completely seal the engine compartment....How will the carb get fresh air for combustion?
What about the exhaust waste? Would this be splashed all over the engine compartment or exited the engine box.

Since the boat is not made for racing, but for pleasure crusing, then leave the engine compartment open to air cool the engine, feed the carb with air...leaving off the water jacket and use an exhaust deflector or suitable heat resistant tubing from Canadian Tire to vent the exhaust waste.
Yikes!! Ya know I never even thought of how to get air in, super huge stupid mistake on my part.
Your Idea of leaving the engine compartment open kind of crossed my mind before. I was originally thinking of having two "hood scoops" on the engine hatch and piping or deflecting fresh air around the head and out another reverse scoop in the aft section somewhere. Do you think scoops would carry enough air volume for cooling? I attached a picture of the boat I am very loosely basing mine on. The scoops I am thinking of would look similar to those.

The entire reason I was going to seal the compartment was because my father said the boat has a bad design flaw to plow under water when in rough water. Its all because of that "deflector skirt" around the hull. If it hits a wave the wrong way she dives. I would have fixed it but he said its built right into the structure so its quite permanent. As long as its used on flat water its a non issue and apparently gets up on plane very nicely. Either way I guess I am going to build a sealed box for the throttle servo. The receiver and steering servo can be housed in the stern section and I can seal that.
As far as the exhaust goes, I think I am going to use the supplied muffler upside down so the outlet points to the stern and then pipe it to the dual tailpipes I built back in high school. I will need to find some heat resistant hose as you suggested from Canadian Tire.

Originally Posted by Pangaea
39" length eh! Now if you want some power and rock the lake with this puppy...a Zenoah 25 PUM modied by Need For Speed Hobbies...haha
I need a symbol for drool. I can only dream about things like that.

Again thanks for all the suggestions everyone. This site has given me things to think about and ideas to do. Like I said I'm new to this and need any help I can get.

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Old 01-09-2006, 06:11 PM   #12
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Ok...if that's the boat in the last pic...then it's a model known as a
"CrackerBox". Those boats are very fast with a Zenoah 23-26PUM.
Yes, I have seen one dive under the water when it's own "wake" hit it. It was so funny seeing a boat run under water..until the enigne quit.
The thing about model engines, is that even it they go under's no problem...just drain the water from the boat remove the glow plug, fully open the carb and with your starter, turn over the engine upside down, until you feel all the water is out of the engine. Replace glow plug, prime the engine and start. Run for half a tank or so. The heat will burn off any water in the engine and the fuel will splash oil all over the engine and moving parts.
What is important here...the radio box must be sealed because of the electrical components. Ok, having said that...if water do get into the radio box....No Problem again. Remove all electrical components....i.e:- receiver, servos, failsafe (if installed) and battery. Open up the receiver and servos (Servos are usually water tite) Use an air gun, compressed air can or good jaw power to blow dry the parts or remove as much water as possible. Next use a heat gun on low setting or Hair dryer on medium setting and blow dry the parts again. Leave them open overnite. Dry out the battery completely, check for swelling (if swollen...dispose of safely), if it looks good visually, recharge under a careful eye. Ok, when everything is dry next day....without assembling....hook up the servos to the receiver along with battery, switch on radio then receiver and see if everything is working perfectly. If it does, assemble and you are ready to rock again. If not, take them to your hobby shop for advise.

Pointers:- Even if you seal the radio box, the battery and receiver shoud be placed in balloons and tied with tie-wrap.
Another method I use when racing..... It is the best method...I stick everything in "condoms" (Xtra Large....hehe) and use garbage bag tie-wraps. Condoms can stretch easily over the Rx and batteries and would not puncture.
The servos are left on their mounts and are supposedly water proof.
When you screw down the Radio Box hatch....use Radio Box tape (sold at good hobby stores) to seal the Radio Box Cover.
There are other methods that are better that I use...but for the "Cracker Box"...the above is ok.

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Old 09-25-2006, 01:36 PM   #13
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HI, just wondering how your project was coming? i'm in the process of scratch building a 53" cape islander and having tons of headaches.....i mean fun in the process!!

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Old 11-23-2006, 06:24 AM   #14
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Hi Tim,

Sorry I haven't been on this site for a few months and didn't know you posted on this thread. Well I am sorry to say my poor boat ground to a stand still after I did the motor mount last year. Thankfully I am presently waiting on a new batch of parts (stuffing boxes, drive shaft, rudders and a prop) to come in from Great Hobbies but the prop is on back order so it may be a few weeks arriving. Once those come in I can finish the drive line and steering hookups then on to the fuel and exhaust systems. I did manage to build a cardboard template about 6 months ago for the deck configuration so I could get an actual scale. If I remember correctly I found 3/4"=1'-0" worked very well so the boat will be a scaled 28'. I am really hoping I can have my boat functional by spring and the deck on and detailing finished by the spring after.

Your Cape Island sounds very interesting. Do you have any details or pictures of it? My wife's brother is a lobster boat captain out of Argyle, NS (Yarmouth Co.). When we are down visiting her family I love to go to the wharf just to see the boats. They have a festival every summer in their community. One of the activities is the lobster boat race. Its like watching a bunch of turtles run LOL!!
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