Lets see what you fly!! AKA THE HOT HELI'S THREAD!! - Page 9 - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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General RC Heli Discussion Discuss general topics on rotary wing aircraft, including construction, Servo's, Gryo's and Stabilizer discussions. Heli Pro Shop

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Old 11-28-2006, 02:21 AM   #81
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Nathan you gonna paint that cf canopy? I got one as well, they are a Byotch to shape and so fourth, no paint yet for me, but soon.....
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Old 11-28-2006, 10:38 PM   #82
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I was thinking about having my buddy airbrush it, but it's kind of got a storm trooper thing going on
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Old 11-29-2006, 03:43 AM   #83
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Check out the paint jobs on Nigel Brown's Synergys, killer !! www.nigelbrown.com.au

Or, have a look at my helmets and goalie mask pages. Might be a couple ideas worth grabbing... www.oraclepaintworks.com

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Old 11-30-2006, 02:41 AM   #84
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Wow, Dan if I had only known about you a month ago! Nice work on your site, so I take it you do or will do RC Heli canopies? :
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Old 11-30-2006, 05:14 AM   #85
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Thanks!!

Yep, I'd be happy to do a canopy. Funny thing though, I've never done a proper paint job for myself Might be time to change that!

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Old 11-30-2006, 12:43 PM   #86
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Dan,
If you don't mind my asking, what paints and sealers/lacquers do you use?

I can never seem to get anything I airbrush looking so..shiny Any tips?
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Old 11-30-2006, 04:26 PM   #87
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Hey Daniel,

It all starts with DuPont automotive epoxy primer, then urethane base coat colours, and clear coat. The same stuff I use on helmets, motorcyles, cars, boats etc etc.

The road to a perfect finish is paved with 2000 grit wet sanding and polishing compound
(and when I say perfect, I mean PERFECT. There's no excuse for flaws when someone is paying for a paint job)

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Old 12-01-2006, 12:51 AM   #88
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Thanks for the tips, some more questions though, if you don't mind, since I want to paint my Rex-600's canopy.

It currently already has some sort of gel coat over it. Should I just prime straight over that, or should I sand/scuff it before priming?
I'm not that awful with the air brush (i've got a badger crescendo here and i've done a few models with it) but i've always had a hard time getting a nice, smooth finish.

You say you're using urethane based colours, any particular brand? Does this also mean you're using a urethane based clear coat when finishing it? I currently use createx airbrush paints, but i'm not too fond of them, I find they chip easily and their finish is kind of rubbery, so any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Thanks for the advice, I want to paint my rex this winter, just gotta figure out what scheme i'm gonna use .
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Old 12-01-2006, 04:47 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Credence
Thanks for the tips, some more questions though, if you don't mind, since I want to paint my Rex-600's canopy.
Ask away, I'm only 36 so I have lots of time left

Quote:
It currently already has some sort of gel coat over it. Should I just prime straight over that, or should I sand/scuff it before priming?
If your canopy is fiberglass, with a gelcoat finish, then absolutely scuff before you prime. Just hit it with 400 grit paper to take off ALL the shine. Be sure to thoroughly clean the canopy with alcohol a couple times before you start sanding.

Quote:
I'm not that awful with the air brush (i've got a badger crescendo here and i've done a few models with it) but i've always had a hard time getting a nice, smooth finish.
Hmm, Badger Crescendo. I had one of those once. I hated it, but it's not the airbrush that provides the smooth finish.

Quote:
You say you're using urethane based colours, any particular brand? Does this also mean you're using a urethane based clear coat when finishing it? I currently use createx airbrush paints, but i'm not too fond of them, I find they chip easily and their finish is kind of rubbery, so any suggestions would be much appreciated!
It's 90% DuPont, with a little House of Kolor for some of the colours. The primer, base, and clear are all urethane products.

Regular Createx paints are OK, but the Createx Auto-Air line is much improved over the last few years. But, they all require a clearcoat, and the Auto-Air paints must be heatset before being clearcoated. It can also be thinned about 10% with water, but once you get accustomed to it you won't generally need to thin it. Auto-Air accepts automotive clear very well *thank goodness*, so you could take your canopy to your local bodyshop and ask/beg/pay them to shoot a couple coats on next time they clearcoat a car. I'd be surprised if they want more than $25, it's only about $3 worth of paint.

Auto-Air has a white primer coat that you can use on the gelcoat, then you could use all acrylic based paints before getting to the clear. This means you can do it at home without the huge toxicity concerns that go hand-in-hand with urethanes. Just make sure you build any Auto-Air in thin coats, and heat set the layers as you go.

Quote:
Thanks for the advice, I want to paint my rex this winter, just gotta figure out what scheme i'm gonna use .
Good luck and have fun, but be sure to post a photo when you're done.

Note: Urethanes, especially the clearcoats, are very toxic and must be applied in a safe manner. If you don't have access to proper facilities (spray booth, respirator or fresh air system) please stick with the Auto-Air, you'll thank me. When your artwork is done, then go have someone do the clearcoat for you. The clear has a component called Isocyanate, your body can't metabolize it properly and it attacks your nervous system.

Hope all this helps, feel free to ask. I love this stuff and am happy to share info and advice.

Regards
Dan
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Old 12-01-2006, 03:51 PM   #90
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Great! Thanks for all the excellent info, this will definitely come in useful.

What did you not like about the crecendo? Just curious, i'm not a professional, so I wouldn't know one good airbrush from another, though I do know that badger tends to be one of the nicer brands. The airbrush has served me quite well so far and has been pretty versatile. My only annoyance has been with the trigger head so far, it's not very comfortable without the rubber grip they supply you with, problem is that rubber grip likes to come off randomly while working, regardless of how hard I jam it on there.

I've also noticed the head can get stuck some times, which is not good, but it's only been a rare occurrence thus far.

Anyways, thanks for all the great advice!
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