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S.P.A.D.s Discuss SPADS

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Old 10-01-2006, 01:52 PM   #11
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What did you mean about that bit about "CA then Polyurethane"?

Don't you just use one or the other?

Ben Hindmarsh

"I keep planting planes, but they just won't grow!"
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Old 10-01-2006, 02:27 PM   #12
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Personally I use both.

I glue it down with CA first (do all the prep work) as if it was the final step before flying. I don't bother doing the top of the spar YET.

I then pry it all apart (remember, only the trailing edge was glued at this point), sand the CA'd area (just to take off the hi spots, not to take it all off).

Then pecker it (no more rubbing with varsol) again and now spray a light coat (mist) of water. Then poly glue the spar and trailing edge and clamp.

I haven't had one split on me doing it this way. With just the CA I found I could pop it open pretty easily.

No zip ties are needed (in my experience) using the CA then poly as described. I'm only using the 4mm stuff too.

A lot of people find that CA works just fine by itself. However, it seems that with different mfg of coro, each formulation is slightly different. The coro I get (in Toronto) glues well using this method.

The coro you get might be from a different mfg so may require an alteration in techniqes. That's why I collected all that info in the download on gluing.
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:08 PM   #13
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Do you use 2mm coro? If so, I'm not all that far from London, where do you buy yours?

I use 2 mm on the wings (I've only built scale fighters for combat, but am about to make some SPADs for fun). This thickness is plenty strong. We also attach a dowel along the LE of the wing for durability. We (the fighter guys) use 4mm for the fuse, tail surfaces and the formers. Wood for the firewall, (fuelproofed with CA.)
One of our members gets a whole bunch in varous colours, then sells it to us at cost. $16 gets enough corro to build 5 fighter planes. He cuts it in smaller, pieces that we lay out our patterns onto. The plans come from 3 view drawings. Then someone blows them up to proper size, and there we go with a pattern! That $16 is including the 2mm for wing and 4mm for fuses,tail surfaces, formers.
(A 2oz bottle of CA and 8oz of PU is enough for 2-3 planes.) Cheap fun!!

Fuses can be difficult for scale fighters if you don't know how.....
To bend it / round it I slit every other flute of the corro on what will be the inside of the fuse. At the nose of the plane, where you have maybe to get it round and tapered, slit each flute for those 3 inches or so needed back to where the firewall is to be. Then bend it around the formers / bulkheads of the fuse. The bulkheads are held in place with CA at first. The fuse gets some elastic bands at each side of each former. Then PU is brushed/smeared on the whole inside of the fuse from the firewall back and activated with a spray of water or Windex. Best thing then is get a small plastic bag and fill it with something light once you've put an empty bag inside the particular fuse area between 2 bulkheads. (kitty litter, or even dirt will do) This helps the expanding PU expand into the flutes of the corro, and makes the fuse really solid. The bag also helps prevent lumpy areas of the cured PU to build up here or there inside the fuse where it might have puddled when it was still a liquid. The plastic bag comes out easily later.

Speed is good in building. Who wants to wait for the next step just because the glue needs to cure in one area? Waiting for just the bottom half of the spar to dry adds a day. Folding the corro around the spar with PU glue on the top and bottom of it and also at the TE works out just fine for me and others here. You can (and I usually do this) use CA on the bottom of the spar, put a long bead of PU on it's top, and a long bead of PU on each side of the spar at it's bottom. Then you'll be sure the spar won't shift before the PU sets up.
Bill O.
London, Ont.
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:13 PM   #14
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I am: Gary Droppo
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Simple gluing technique

I have build many SPADS, including a very large drainpipe based one. I don't understand why some many people go to so much trouble in the gluing process.

I use contact cement for just about everything to do with Coroplast, including joining the trailing edge of folded wings (about 1 to 1.5 inch band).

Hot glue is also very good for places where contact cement is not appropriate, and/or where you need to do some filling or stiffening of the structure. (Also works great for quick field repairs. The foamy flyers always have their hot glue guns at the field and I have started packing mine in my flight box as well)

Here is all you need to do:
1. Clean your coroplast with a cloth soaked in acetone (available from Canadian Tire and elsewhere). Period! Nothing else to do.

2. Apply your contact cement to both surfaces, wait the appropriate time
(usually 15 to 30 minutes, but you can wave your heat gun around and accelerate the drying a bit).

3. Stick the surfaces together, clamp or weight the finished joint for awhile
to be sure that everything sets well.

I just discovered Lepages water-soluble contact cement. Never again will I use traditional contact cement. I have for many years used the Dave Brown Sorghum contact cement to make balsa-sheeted foam wings, join foam sections together, etc. It has a bit of a smell, nothing too bad, which won't be noticed other than within 6 feet or less of the work, and it goes away almost immediately.

As soon as I opened the Lepages contact cement, I detected that there is the sorghum smell, barely detectable. So, I can now buy the same stuff at
a hardware store and a fraction of the hobby shop price! Just like Model Model Magic is really light spackling compound and RC56 is really Weldbond glue. Always keep your eyes open - don't pay price multiples for ordinary stuff with a fancy hobby label on it. SPADites know better!

BTW, acetone is perfect for cleaning all the paint off that political sign that you just rescued. Messy job, but it works. Whenever I build, I completely wipe the coroplast with acetone before I start. That way, glue or paint will stick anywhere I want it to. For decorating, which I usually avoid, I use magic markers and water-soluble acrylic craft paint. If I screw up the job, I just wipe it all away with acetone and start again.
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:23 AM   #15
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Hey Deerslayer, thanks for the info! I've been having great luck with polyurethane glue recently, so I'll be sticking to that (pun intended).
Ben Hindmarsh

"I keep planting planes, but they just won't grow!"
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