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Old 10-22-2007, 01:21 PM   #1
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Engine Cleaning

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Hi Everyone: I know that this horse has probably been beaten to death many times in the past, so I'll just do it one more time: what would be the best way to clean carbon residue on a glow engine (O.S. FX 1.60) and a Bisson muffler that goes with it, WITHOUT THE USE OF A CROCK POT WHICH I DON'T HAVE? Both engine & muffler are pretty externally gummed up, although this apparently has not had a noticeable effect on performance. It's mostly a cosmetic issue in this case. Thanks for the input.

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Old 10-22-2007, 02:04 PM   #2
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Other than the easy method you don't want/can't use, use paint stripper and an old toothbrush. Rinse with HOT HOT HOT water. Oil 'er up with ATF (as some water invariably did get inside) and yer done.

Wash the toothbrush out thoroughly after use otherwise the stripper will melt it over time.

Don't brush yer teeth with it either.
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Old 10-22-2007, 05:46 PM   #3
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Since you wanted to know the "best" way, I suggest you first go to one of the used stuff places and buy a crock pot, then get some antifreeze and let an overnight cook on low do all the work for you. Don't forget to remove the meltables from your engine.
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Old 10-22-2007, 05:51 PM   #4
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the active ingrediant in most chemical strippers (and the industrial stuff I get and use in my shop) is methylene chloride (or di chloro methane). It can be used as a cleaner/degreaser BUT it will dissolve any plastics quite quickly. I wouldnt personally use it to clean a model engine. If you do use it, wear gloves and glasses. A decent stripper with a good concentration of the stuff will burn you quickly. I only know what I use, maybe the stuiff you buy at the hardware store isnt as strong (and I doubt it).

I simply use a good industrial cleaner, diluted with water, and a brass or stainless steel brush to clean off the exteriors of my engines. For heavily deposited carbon I may use a stiffer wire brush (but you will scratch the casting's surface).

I did a cleaning/overhaul article for Fly RC that is on their website if you are interested in reading it.

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if its got a wing or two and an engine - I like it!
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:24 PM   #5
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For mufflers cause I am not too fussy with some discoloration borrow your wifes easy off oven spray cleaner. It will remove the brown gunk.
For the engine casing I don't like to use that stuff so I use Zep citrus cleaner (you know the stuff from the infomercials) that is avaialble at Home Depot and either a tooth brush or soft bristle metal brush.
Then rinse with water, blow dry with compressor or heat gun on coolest setting then lube well with sewing machine oil.
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Old 10-23-2007, 08:48 PM   #6
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Cleaniing engines

Gee, I would kind of watch the oven cleaner; it is quite caustic and may not agree with some of the alloys we use for engines.

Carb cleaner, however, is made just for the purpose of cleaning alloy parts. It is available at auto supply stores, and has worked for me in the past.
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Old 10-23-2007, 09:48 PM   #7
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i use a 50/50 mix of water and pinesol.
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Old 10-24-2007, 10:29 PM   #8
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Re: Cleaning engines

[quote="TLyttle"]Gee, I would kind of watch the oven cleaner; it is quite caustic and may not agree with some of the alloys we use for engines.

As I said I only use the oven cleaner on mufflers (not engine parts) as they are usually the grungiest of all and its no big deal if they get discolored slightly although that has never happened to me yet.
I don't use or recommend it for engine casings or any internal parts. For the engine parts the citrus cleaners do a pretty good job.
Although when you thinka about it the muffler and engine casing are likely the same material so that should not be a problem.
The piston sleeves could be an issue depending on their composition. Likewise the carb o ring and carb body and seals depending on their material type although the oven spray does not seem to bother the rubber gloves I use when handling this stuff.
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:58 AM   #9
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Hello; I just did an old HB 21 that was locked solid with castor residue. What I did was take off the carb (whick is plastic) and immerse it in heated antjfreeze in a pot pourri pot (a miniature crock pot) and left it to stew for two days. Then I took it out and washed it all off under a hot water stream with a tooth brush. I turned the prop until it freed up. Then I oiled it up, in the carb opening, in the glow plug hole, and in the exhauyst port, about 10 drops in each. Then I turned it over enough to distribute the air tool oil throughout. I should have taken "before and after" pictures, because it went from a blackened lump to a shining, just like new engine.

If all you want to do is knock a bit of burnt on residue off the exterior, I often use a citrus based hand cleaner and a tooth brush. If you can heat the engine up first, the hand cleaner will be more effective. Don't forget to oil it up after your finished, you will have exposed some delicate metal to the corrosive atmosphere.
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:35 PM   #10
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Simply immerse the entire engine and muffler in undiluted antifreeze (the cheap green stuff) and let it sit out of harms way for 3 or 4 days somewhere in your basement. Then take an old toothbrush and with almost no effort the crud will come right off and engine and muffler will look as good as new. You do not need a crockpot or heat. I have used this method and it works very well. The only drawback is it takes longer than the crockpot and heat method. Hope this helps, let us know your results.
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