WW1 coro wing build - RCCanada

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 01:24 PM

I hope this information will be of some help to those trying to build their first wing.
Thanks to a demo from Ted Banks 10 members of our club are now building WW1 biplanes for some combat fun this summer.
There are many far more experienced builders than me, but I guess I am one of the few " retired " builders who has the time to post this information.

Use 2mm coro for the wings. the flutes run at a right angle to the leading edge.
Start by scoring a mark about 1/8 inch wide where the leading edge will go.
This is not the centre of the sheet ! The bottom part should be about 1/2 inch shorter than the top part to allow for the curvature of the top part of the wing. ie: bottom chord is 8 inches top chord is 8.5 inches
Don't cut through the coro just press it down, then fold it over the ruler ..
This will be the leading edge when you are done .

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 01:29 PM

Next step is to cut the profile for the wing.
cut out a rectangle where the ailerons will go.
Don't forget to make the top part of the wing a bit longer from the leading to trailing edge to compensate for the wing curvature.
Any excess material will be trimmed off later.
Try to get the cutouts for the ailerons close to the correct size. If you trim this material later you may cut through the ailerons at the hinge point .. ( yup I did it ! )

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 01:36 PM

Next step is to make the spar for the wing.
I used a meter stick available from Home Depot for about $3.
Cut the stick lengthwise so that you will end up with a finished wing at least 3/4 inch thick.
Assemble it with dihederal unless you are building a flat wing.
Make it about 2 inches short than the wing.
I have a 5 inch flat section in the centre and 1 inch dihederal.
Cut an angle from the wing tip to about 4 inches from the tip.
This will make it easier to form the wing tip later.

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 01:51 PM

Before you assemble the pieces lightly sand all of the coro with coarse sandpaper. This will help the glue to stick to the corrugated plastic.
Don't scratch the exterior of the wing or it will show through your paint job !

Here is the wing ready for final assembly.
The wood pieces at the front and back in the centre add strength and can be used as attachment points. They will also give extra support if you use elastic bands to hold the wing on to the fuse. ( 1.5 x 5 x1/4 inch )
There is a piece of 4mm coro about 1.5 inches wide set back 1/4 inch from the leading edge to add support to the leading edge.
The ailerons are also made from 4mm coro. Slot the bottom (only) where the hinge will be.

Put some polyurethane glue in the centre of these pieces, lightly spray them with water and then tack them to the wing with cyano.
( polyurethane glue needs moisture to work properly, I used Elmer's Ultimate Polyurethane glue )
Also tack the strut in place about 1/3 of the way back from the leading edge.

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 01:58 PM

I made a wooden jig to hold the wing. This allows assembly of the entire wing all at one time.
There is a piece of leftover ruler placed where the spar will go.
This adds some undercamber to the finished wing.

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 02:04 PM

Here is the wing in the jig ready to be folded over.
Use polyurethane glue along the leading edge and on top of the wood and 4mm coro and along the wing tips and trailing edge where the 2mm coro will meet.
Also put some glue along the bottom and the top of the spar.

Lightly spray the coro with some water before you fold it over

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 02:11 PM

I cut a slot in the centre of the top part of the wing so that it would fit better. ( not required for flat wings )
Check to make sure that you have glue at the edges of the coro.
It's a lot easier to add a bit now than to try to fix it up later.
Also check the fit of the ailerons to make sure that the hinge is clear of the 2mm coro. They don't work too good if the 2mm coro is glued over top of the hinge point ( I did that too ! )

The leading edge is held in place with some Duct tape.
Once it all looks OK you can tape the trailing edge in place with some masking tape.
I put some wax paper on the jig so the wing doesn't get stuck to it.

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 02:15 PM

Last step is to clamp it all in place or use some paint cans to hold it down till the glue dries.
I also use some small clamps to hold the top and bottom of the wing tips together.

Once the glue has set you can remove it from the jig and trim any excess material.

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 02:27 PM

Here is the finished wing ready to be trimmed.

bobreib · 02-02-2008, 02:37 PM

here is the wing tip

02-02-2008, 01:24 PM	#1
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	WW1 coro wing build Remove this ad - become a site supporter! I hope this information will be of some help to those trying to build their first wing. Thanks to a demo from Ted Banks 10 members of our club are now building WW1 biplanes for some combat fun this summer. There are many far more experienced builders than me, but I guess I am one of the few " retired " builders who has the time to post this information. Use 2mm coro for the wings. the flutes run at a right angle to the leading edge. Start by scoring a mark about 1/8 inch wide where the leading edge will go. This is not the centre of the sheet ! The bottom part should be about 1/2 inch shorter than the top part to allow for the curvature of the top part of the wing. ie: bottom chord is 8 inches top chord is 8.5 inches Don't cut through the coro just press it down, then fold it over the ruler .. This will be the leading edge when you are done . Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 01:29 PM	#2
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	Next step is to cut the profile for the wing. cut out a rectangle where the ailerons will go. Don't forget to make the top part of the wing a bit longer from the leading to trailing edge to compensate for the wing curvature. Any excess material will be trimmed off later. Try to get the cutouts for the ailerons close to the correct size. If you trim this material later you may cut through the ailerons at the hinge point .. ( yup I did it ! ) Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 01:36 PM	#3
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	Next step is to make the spar for the wing. I used a meter stick available from Home Depot for about $3. Cut the stick lengthwise so that you will end up with a finished wing at least 3/4 inch thick. Assemble it with dihederal unless you are building a flat wing. Make it about 2 inches short than the wing. I have a 5 inch flat section in the centre and 1 inch dihederal. Cut an angle from the wing tip to about 4 inches from the tip. This will make it easier to form the wing tip later. Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 01:51 PM	#4
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	Before you assemble the pieces lightly sand all of the coro with coarse sandpaper. This will help the glue to stick to the corrugated plastic. Don't scratch the exterior of the wing or it will show through your paint job ! Here is the wing ready for final assembly. The wood pieces at the front and back in the centre add strength and can be used as attachment points. They will also give extra support if you use elastic bands to hold the wing on to the fuse. ( 1.5 x 5 x1/4 inch ) There is a piece of 4mm coro about 1.5 inches wide set back 1/4 inch from the leading edge to add support to the leading edge. The ailerons are also made from 4mm coro. Slot the bottom (only) where the hinge will be. Put some polyurethane glue in the centre of these pieces, lightly spray them with water and then tack them to the wing with cyano. ( polyurethane glue needs moisture to work properly, I used Elmer's Ultimate Polyurethane glue ) Also tack the strut in place about 1/3 of the way back from the leading edge. Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 01:58 PM	#5
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	I made a wooden jig to hold the wing. This allows assembly of the entire wing all at one time. There is a piece of leftover ruler placed where the spar will go. This adds some undercamber to the finished wing. Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 02:04 PM	#6
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	Here is the wing in the jig ready to be folded over. Use polyurethane glue along the leading edge and on top of the wood and 4mm coro and along the wing tips and trailing edge where the 2mm coro will meet. Also put some glue along the bottom and the top of the spar. Lightly spray the coro with some water before you fold it over Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 02:11 PM	#7
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	I cut a slot in the centre of the top part of the wing so that it would fit better. ( not required for flat wings ) Check to make sure that you have glue at the edges of the coro. It's a lot easier to add a bit now than to try to fix it up later. Also check the fit of the ailerons to make sure that the hinge is clear of the 2mm coro. They don't work too good if the 2mm coro is glued over top of the hinge point ( I did that too ! ) The leading edge is held in place with some Duct tape. Once it all looks OK you can tape the trailing edge in place with some masking tape. I put some wax paper on the jig so the wing doesn't get stuck to it. Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 02:15 PM	#8
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	Last step is to clamp it all in place or use some paint cans to hold it down till the glue dries. I also use some small clamps to hold the top and bottom of the wing tips together. Once the glue has set you can remove it from the jig and trim any excess material. Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 02:27 PM	#9
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	Here is the finished wing ready to be trimmed. Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

02-02-2008, 02:37 PM	#10
bobreib Posts like a .25ci I am: Bob R. Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chatham, Ontario Radio of choice: Futaba 12FG & Graupner MX-16 Feedback: 6 / 100% Posts: 554 Total Props: 5	here is the wing tip Last edited by bobreib; 03-20-2010 at 05:41 PM.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode