Work bench height - Page 2 - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 06-11-2008, 02:50 PM   #11
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Re: Work bench height

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I probably have the best work bench of all. It is an old operating room stretcher that I removed the panels off the top and built a frame for. It is 36" wide and 7 ft. long. I have a 3/4" panel with under bracing for the top and also a couple of door panels sitting on it. They are there just because I did not need them and it makes it easier to pin things to it. The best part is it has caster wheels with brakes on all four corners and for elevation it is on hydraulics for lift. I can raise it fairly high to be comfortable.
John Davidson
Keep the shiny side up and the wheels down
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Old 06-11-2008, 06:14 PM   #12
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Re: Work bench height

Good question, and as you can see, it's not a one size fits all answer.

I had a work bench custom built for me. I figured 41" would be good. I was almost right. 46" would have been better. As it is, the bench comes to 4" below my belt line. (Yeah, it's just barely above my crotch. Did I mention I'm tall?)

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Old 06-12-2008, 07:16 PM   #13
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Re: Work bench height

Thanks guys,
I have the space for the size and thanks to you now have a starting point for the height. Nice to have even unknown friends out there.

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Old 06-29-2008, 10:47 AM   #14
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Re: Work bench height

Hi all,

If I can possibly add my 2 pennies to the thread.

My suggestion is to stand and measure from your belly button to the floor and that is the height that you should have as your table height.

In my case I used a hollow cored door for my table, mounted wood slats across the bottom of the table (assuming door is now table top). I was careful to locate the wood slats in the correct position, because I then mounted (Canadian Tire) foldable table legs to the slats. However these legs may need to be extended to achieve your correct height; round pipe makes great extenders, these can be glued on with silicone so they do not fall off, but they must be of a length to reach the bend in the foldable leg, as that is what the weight will be resting on.

To give my building table lateral strength (it is a hollow door, strength needed), I mounted 2 lengths of 2 X 4 (first making sure they were dry and STRAIGHT), almost to the outer lengthwise edges of the door (these doors only have solid wood on the outside edges). Yes I know that makes the table heavy, but it also made it less likely to warp.

So when I am not using the table, I fold up the legs and lean it out of my way, even if I have a project pinned onto it.

I used an unfinished laminate (oak) door, and am able to push t-pins into the laminate, or even through, though this does make for sore thumbs after a while....

My suggestion guys.
Andrew Rodriguez
Diamond Aces Radio Control Club
Steinbach Manitoba
MAAC #63582
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