[cravenjw]

Or you can use a proper clamping shaft collar

One piece
https://www.mcmaster.com/6435k12
Two piece
https://www.mcmaster.com/6436k12

[AJCoholic]

Problem with untreated steel is it will rust. Quickly if Hoij fly from grass where the wheels get wet. That’s prob why most wheel collars are plated brass or older ones were cadmium plated steel.

WHen the screw rusts into the raw steel collar you are back to square one.

Why not make them from brass or even aluminum? Aluminum with a stainless steel screw would be excellent. And never corrode.

As far as loctite goes, I never use it on wheel collars. A light smear of clear silicone sealant will keep the screw and collar from coming off, yet can be removed easily.

If you file or dremel a slight notch in the axcel where the set screw goes, it will also remain there much better than trying to torque down the tiny set screw with the cheap, soft steel Allen wrench they supply with them.

[Midair]

Originally Posted by OLD PRAIRIE RED NECK

Loctite is the reason I that I couldn't get the last set of wheel collars off! The prop nut was put on the same way on an engine I just acquired and the crankshaft broke!

I am personally sick of Loctite! It's WAY over used and over rated.

I like these wheel collars!

Locktite thread locker is a good product when used as developed. As others have stated, folks need to use the appropriate formula for the specific application. I use Locktite on all metal to metal fasteners; generally "blue," or "green" on my models, particularly on helos. Now a days, with the proliferation of electric models it's not as critical as on nitro or gassers; much less vibration on electrics and less likely to loosen nuts and bolts.

...but, still I'll Locktite critical connections

...and, happy to say that after 40+ years of flying almost all types of models, I have never lost one, or a component, due to a fastening failure.

[kip51035]

Why not just buy a better quality allen key? Get a 1/2" square of a Cornflake box, drill a hole in it the size of the axel, A washer that fits the axel. sand the plating off of one side. Sand the end of the axel. Place the cardboard on the axel next to the wheel. Place the washer on the axel sanded side out. Take your 200 watt soldering iron and solder the washer to the axel. When it hardens pull the cardboard out and lubricate.

[RAMJET]

Originally Posted by Midair

Locktite thread locker is a good product when used as developed. As others have stated, folks need to use the appropriate formula for the specific application. I use Locktite on all metal to metal fasteners; generally "blue," or "green" on my models, particularly on helos. Now a days, with the proliferation of electric models it's not as critical as on nitro or gassers; much less vibration on electrics and less likely to loosen nuts and bolts.

...but, still I'll Locktite critical connections

...and, happy to say that after 40+ years of flying almost all types of models, I have never lost one, or a component, due to a fastening failure.

I agree, use the correct loctite and a bit of knowledge and you will have no problems . I keep 4 grades of loctite on hand and use it on everything , never a problem .. I do have many customers come to me after destroying something because they didn't have the right tool , puller or knowledge . Blaming loctite for breaking something is like blaming your hockey stick for missing the net LOL.

[RAMJET]

Originally Posted by cravenjw

Or you can use a proper clamping shaft collar

One piece
https://www.mcmaster.com/6435k12
Two piece
https://www.mcmaster.com/6436k12

Thanks for the link John ,I like those ..

[OLD PRAIRIE RED NECK]

Loctite in my view is just a crutch for those that do not know how to properly prep, lube and tighten a part or for poorly designed parts.

[davidmc36]

This is an awesome thread. At first I look at the original post and say "I have tons of aluminum rod stock and made that way will have lots of thread depth.

Then I see the links to clamping collars. Easy to make also.

Big thumbs up.

[Harvard 387]

This is hoe I have been making axles for years. Simple and cheap. Everything is available from your local hardware shop.
This system only works on flat aluminum gear, not the wire ones.
I use a machine screw of the proper size (6-32 for smaller hubs , 8-32 for bigger ones) with a regular nut and a nylon insert one.
thread on the regular nut to the screw and secure with threadlock. I use Liquid Gasket Maker instead of Locktite. Gasket maker will hold the nut from turning but with a small amount of force it will come loose.
The nylon insert nut goes on on the inside of the axle and all that shows on the hub of the tire is a head of the screw.
Never had one come loose.

[RAMJET]

Nothing wrong with that setup ,I've used it many times when flying my smaller stuff. it's a great idea . I think Ron Chapman used the same setup on his big planes too . Funny you mention Gasket maker . For anything that I can't use heat to remove, I use Loctite 518, it's a gasket eliminator..like you say the gasket maker will break free easily but wont let things turn with vibrations ,I use it on servo screws and the wire wing rigging that needs to come apart often .

Originally Posted by Harvard 387

This is hoe I have been making axles for years. Simple and cheap. Everything is available from your local hardware shop.
This system only works on flat aluminum gear, not the wire ones.
I use a machine screw of the proper size (6-32 for smaller hubs , 8-32 for bigger ones) with a regular nut and a nylon insert one.
thread on the regular nut to the screw and secure with threadlock. I use Liquid Gasket Maker instead of Locktite. Gasket maker will hold the nut from turning but with a small amount of force it will come loose.
The nylon insert nut goes on on the inside of the axle and all that shows on the hub of the tire is a head of the screw.
Never had one come loose.