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Old 04-17-2019, 06:16 AM   #21
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Re: 30% Chipmunk


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Originally Posted by Mike Sebastien View Post
Sure would.
No actually it won't , unless you can get by with 3" of wing tube in the outer wing sections , You could redesign the plane with a one piece wings but then you would have to remove the wheels with the wings , that's a real pain .
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:36 AM   #22
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Re: Hostetler 30% Chipmunk

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No actually it won't , unless you can get by with 3" of wing tube in the outer wing sections , You could redesign the plane with a one piece wings but then you would have to remove the wheels with the wings , that's a real pain .
40% aerobatic aircraft use long wing tubes. Don't see any reason why this build couldn't be modified for a long wing But that is your choice.
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Old 04-17-2019, 12:43 PM   #23
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Re: Hostetler 30% Chipmunk

Does this plane not have two bends in the wing just outside the fuse? If yes that would make it a pain to put a one piece wing tube in there.
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:00 PM   #24
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Re: Hostetler 30% Chipmunk

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Don't see any reason why this build couldn't be modified for a long wing But that is your choice.
How would you go about modifying this wing, Mike?

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Old 04-17-2019, 02:25 PM   #25
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Re: Hostetler 30% Chipmunk

Wing tube goes straight thru the center wing and the outer wing, holes are cut in the ribs to achieve the diedral. rib 1 of outer wing the wing tube hole would in the center and then each rib after Rib 1 would be cut a little lower to achieve the dihedral. Scratched built this lysander from Brant plans I enlarged. Originally it had a one piece wing and modified it into a 3 piece wing using the method I described. You can see the center section is permanently mounted to the fuse with the wing tube hole. the left and right wing was then mounted onto the wing tube. There is only one wing tube.
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:34 PM   #26
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Re: Hostetler 30% Chipmunk

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Originally Posted by Mike Sebastien View Post
Wing tube goes straight thru the center wing and the outer wing, holes are cut in the ribs to achieve the diedral. rib 1 of outer wing the wing tube hole would in the center and then each rib after Rib 1 would be cut a little lower to achieve the dihedral. Scratched built this lysander from Brant plans I enlarged. Originally it had a one piece wing and modified it into a 3 piece wing using the method I described. You can see the center section is permanently mounted to the fuse with the wing tube hole. the left and right wing was then mounted onto the wing tube. There is only one wing tube.

Now that is a beautiful plane!! Well done!!
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:38 PM   #27
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Re: 30% Chipmunk

Yes Mike, I can't believe you don't see this . When you have enough Dihedral and the wing joints are 26" apart the tube comes out the bottom of the wing 3" into the panel. You got away with it because your wing joints can be close together so you can use a good amount of tube before the bend . I have tubes plenty long enough but they Simply won't work on this plane . When I did my scratch built 108" chipmunk I made the wing joints much closer so with the same amount of dihedral I could use a wing tube ,but I had to make the sacrifice of leaving the wheels on the wing sections .A plane this size with no wheels would be a real problem. I posted a picture of the wing center section, you can see with a 1 3/4" strip pushed as high as it could go would have the tube come out the bottom of the wing 3" into the panel . I put a little wood wedge to show in the picture the wing joint position . The system they use while odd seems to work well and I am sure is plenty strong ..The up side is you can't forget your wing tube LOL.
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:50 PM   #28
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Re: Hostetler 30% Chipmunk

The only solution that I could see is to use a smaller tube and even that might be questionable. I have built 2 Hosteler kits, Decathlon and a Beaver. Both use the same wing mounting system as your chipmunk and if I had a Do-over I would convert to wing tube right from the beginning. Although the Hosteler system works ok there is a huge issue with it. We normally build during the winter when the air is very dry and the wood also. When summer comes which is humid except out in the prairies The blades will swell and seize in there sockets. It is a real bitch to get the wings off. The beaver which is the second one I built, I made the blades loose width wise to take into account any swelling. Also I sealed the blades and sockets with Finishing resin. This helped but it still was a issue. Also Carry a large putty knife in your field box to help separate the wing.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:15 PM   #29
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Re: Hostetler 30% Chipmunk

Here is a little trick I use when sheeting the wings , When you do the top sheeting the ribs have tabs to stand on to keep the wing in alignment , but when you flip them over to do the bottom the wing is still quite flexible and you will warp them when sheeting the bottoms if not careful . If when the wing is standing on it's alignment tabs you trace onto a couple of pieces of foam the shapes of the end ribs (Make sure the foam is square and standing on the table when you trace ) cut them out flip them over and you have a perfect cradle for keeping the wing straight when sheeting ..just knock off the foam legs so they don't get in the way when sheeting .
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:25 PM   #30
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Re: 30% Chipmunk

[QUOTE=Mike Sebastien;3693777]The only solution that I could see is to use a smaller tube and even that might be questionable. I have built 2 Hosteler kits, Decathlon and a Beaver. Both use the same wing mounting system as your chipmunk and if I had a Do-over I would convert to wing tube right from the beginning. Although the Hosteler system works ok there is a huge issue with it. We normally build during the winter when the air is very dry and the wood also. When summer comes which is humid except out in the prairies The blades will swell and seize in there sockets. It is a real bitch to get the wings off. The beaver which is the second one I built, I made the blades loose width wise to take into account any swelling. Also I sealed the blades and sockets with Finishing resin. This helped but it still was a issue. Also Carry a large putty knife in your field box to help separate the wing.

Mike the side to side clearance is 1/16" so lots of clearance there . I've used wood to wood fits before , I found the best thing is a good cote of mold wax . will slide in and out like butter but it only works if you leave the wood raw ..
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